By Jovan Krstevski
The 12 animals of the Zodiac are engraved chronologically on the situation middle with all the rat positioned on the upper right corner of this watch. Some highlights worth mentioning include the tiger, which is positioned on the crown; and the dragon and snake, which are intertwined between the base lugs of this case. The bezel is hand-engraved with the champlevé technique also and includes a pattern which calls to mind that the grids found on ancient Chinese doorways. Like the case, it’s hand-engraved using a lattice pattern that’s like that of the bezel. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is water-resistant to 30m and comes with a black tee alligator strap plus a fitting 18k rose gold pin buckle.The L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac features a number of complications. On the dial at 12 o’clock is a major date display. Below are the perpetual calendar indications. At 3 o’clock, we’ve got the month and leap year signs, and at 9 o’clock we’ve got the afternoon and 24-hour indicators. In the end, at 6 o’clock there is the tourbillon which makes a rotation every minute. This doubles up as the running moments sub-dial. Powering the opinion is the caliber 02.15-L that contains 353 components and Chopard’s Quattro system, so it’s four mainspring barrels along with a power reserve of 216 hours or 9 days. As stated earlier, it includes the ceaseless calendar complication along with a tourbillon mechanism, and it beats at 4Hz. The motion comprises extensive hand-finishing for example beveled bridges, gleaming screws and jewel countersinks, and continues to be given the Geneva Seal. The owner can also rest sure of exceptional timekeeping performance since it’s additionally chronometer-certified by COSC. The motion could be admired through the view’s sapphire display caseback.
The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru watch is a successor to the brand’s first L.U.C XP Tonneau watch that was released in 2001. This latest at Chopard’s deservedly vaunted L.U.C division is called after the distinction offered to the most superior levels of wine produced… Though, how these two distinct fields of fine living resonate we will attempt not only to clarify, but also detect ourselves.Reminiscent and similar to this Chopard L.U.C XP Tonneau watch, the Heritage Grand Cru is an odd piece from Chopard based on case shape alone — more on that in a bit. A glance in its spec sheet gives away an automatic, tonneau-shaped, 3.3mm thick motion wrapped within an 18kt rose gold, tonneau-shaped case that steps just 38.5mm by 38.8mm, coming in at a slender 7.7millimeter thick.The curved middle section of this case is vertical lace brushed while the bezel and area surrounding the display case-back is polished. Beyond the domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a white porcelain-type dial with black Roman numerals, with a second track surrounding the center of the dial. At 6 o’clock is the small seconds sub-dial, which can be snailed and contains a gilded seconds hand. The hour and minute hands are dauphine style and are also gilded.It isn’t unusual for gold hands on watches to be polished into a point where it is not even worth inquiring about legibility in higher-light ailments. The gilded, i.e. plated gold palms here are brilliant but are quite legible in the sunlight and at various angles. Set against the glossy, trendy porcelain dial, the dauphine-fusée hour and second hands are properly angular and thoughtfully proportioned to get a tonneau-shaped case. Fusée means rocket in French and also this specific sort of dauphine hands is Chopard’s own — something that I keep to very much enjoy regardless of the case shape and dial design they install it on. Their faceted sides and ideal length give them plenty of quantity — and no opinion could be taken seriously without appropriate palms.
The 12 animals of the Zodiac are engraved chronologically on the situation middle with all the rat positioned at the top right corner of this watch. Some highlights worth mentioning include the tiger, which can be positioned on the crown; and the snake and dragon, which are intertwined between the bottom lugs of this circumstance. The bezel is hand-engraved using the champlevé technique also and includes a pattern that calls to mind the grids found on historical Chinese doorways. Such as the case, it’s hand-engraved using a lattice pattern that is like that of the bezel. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is water-resistant to 30m and comes with a black tee alligator strap and a matching 18k rose gold pin buckle.The L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac includes lots of complications. Below are the perpetual calendar signs. At 3 o’clock, we’ve got the month and leap year signs, and at 9 o’clock we’ve got the afternoon and 24-hour indicators. Finally, at 6 o’clock there is the tourbillon that makes a rotation every minute. This doubles up as the running seconds sub-dial. Powering the opinion is your caliber 02.15-L that contains 353 components and Chopard’s Quattro system, which means it has four mainspring barrels along with a power reserve of 216 hours or 9 days. As mentioned before, it features the perpetual calendar complication along with a tourbillon mechanism, and it defeats at 4Hz. The movement comprises extensive hand-finishing such as beveled bridges, polished screws and stone countersinks, and continues to be given the Geneva Seal. The owner may also rest assured of exceptional timekeeping performance since it is also chronometer-certified by COSC. The motion could be admired through the watch’s sapphire display caseback.
If you remember back in 2005, we were all salivating for the much-awaited release of the gorgeous Lunar One by Chopard. So without further ado, this year we will be once again experiencing another refreshed version of the Lunar One. What makes this really special is that its source of inspiration is no other than its founding father Louis-Ulysse Chopard. This is also the reason why it is the flagship of the collection bearing the L.U.C initials, in short, it is arguably one of Chopard’s finest contemporary timepieces. The Geneva Seal-certified L.U.C Lunar One is certainly a sporty perpetual calendar watch with a moon phase indicator in a platinum case. What is more is that there will only be 100 pieces of the Lunar One… that is one heck of a restriction for a truly incredible watch.
Platinum has grown on me due to its psychological value. To begin with, you never truly forget you’re wearing a platinum opinion. Its weight makes it considerably more “old school” as a luxury product when weight helped one measure the worth of something. Thus, compared to a steel watch, you really realize that something different is on your wrist when sporting platinum (and there’s value in being reminded of that). Ironically, these days watchmakers are just as interested in making watches lighter in weight (maybe more curious) than making heavy gold or platinum watches.Platinum is also more discreet than yellow gold, or most other metals of gold. The same argument can be made for white gold. This means that while you as the wearer know you’ve got something precious, that fact is much less obvious for the people viewing the watch for you personally. Wearing it means that you need to have the ability to afford it, but in addition, it means you aren’t yelling that fact to the world. Be aware that while the case is gold, the crown is generated out of 18k white gold. That is likely because platinum is a harder-to-machine material, and also the particulars in the crown likely make it easier to create in gold.
At 43mm the polished platinum case with alternating brushed features seems a bit small for a chronometer particularly its 11.47mm thickness but don’t we all want a smaller complicated watch? Maybe Chopard just wants every space tightened up for a smaller watch but we can all surmise as we like but the designers and engineers sure know their thing and I’m just very glad how this turned out, a work of art timepiece worthy of a royalty. I love the platinum case, its lovely bezel and the subtle lugs and bezel.
The new Lunar One also has new dial design which is now featuring applied Roman numerals. The sub-dials seem a bit squeezed but this is so that readability is enhanced. The moon phase and calendar complications, along with the big date aperture at 12 are nicely designed against a deep blue sunray dial. The polished metals are a fascinating combo of delicious watchmaker’s marvels, I like it. A thing to note here is that the sunray dial radiates from the Chopard logo which is located halfway at the 12 o’clock point, quite a unique approach.
The new dial presents applied Roman numerals, a trio of subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the moon phase and calendar complications, along with the “big date” aperture, which communicates from earlier versions. But even in all that activity, the deep blue sunray dial is possibly the best possible canvas to comparison all the polished indicators and elements delineating the info on every register. Be aware that the sunray texture ratdiates not from the middle, but by the Chopard emblem. The Lunar One’s alternating brushed and polished platinum case measures an extremely full 43mm wide, and squeezing this watch in a event any smaller will be nearly impossible. The simple fact that the opinion is 11.47mm thick will probably keep it from appearing too large on the wrist for people who may be inclined towards a smaller case.The subdials do appear to me to be squeezing the numerals around them. It gives me the exact same feeling as when I am unfortunate enough to have the middle seat on a plane, packed with two individuals too wide for their own chairs. The sensation of these subdials being a little “bloated” certainly makes the idea of this opinion being even one millimeter narrower seem like a balloon-popping proposition.The Calibre 96.13-L beating within is regarded as Chopard’s crown jewel, barely a small accomplishment at a steady of pretty intriguing calibers at both ends of the complication spectrum. Requiring adjustment only once every 122 years (hypothetically speaking), the perpetual calendar nicely complements the moon phase indicator, but it’s no typical moon phase indicator using a static aperture displaying the current form of the moon. This one is an “astronomical moon phase” complication which orbits the 6:00 enroll in accordance with its proper stage and astronomical positioning in the night skies.
The heart of the new Lunar One is, of course, an in-house Calibre 96.13-L, an L.U.C. crown jewel operating at 28,800 vph and cranking a pretty lengthy power reserve of 65 hours. This is arguably touted as an accomplishment in a stable of pretty interesting calibers at both ends of the complication spectrum. This movement is requiring adjustments once every 122 years, that is certainly the job of your descendants. One of the special signature features of this movement is its astronomical moon phase complication orbiting the sub-dial at 6. The nighttime sky presentation is fascinatingly in realtime, this is indeed a lovely astronomical positioning that is somehow akin to the latest GPS devices, fooled me.
Chopard is a Swiss luxury business focused on watches, jewelry and accessoires. Chopard was founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard. The Chopard manufacture in Fleurier generates L.U.C movements that could be found in several Chopard timepieces. Notable Chopard watches for men and Chopard women’s watches comprise the Happy Diamonds, Imperiale, Classic Racing, L.U.C., Classic. Being a luxury focused brand Chopard is both popular for its Chopard men’s watches and the bead watches it creates for women.For the previous few years, Chopard has celebrated the Chinese Rolex by releasing a special edition of the L.U.C XP Urushi watch ever year. This season, as an example, it was the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rooster, which includes an amazing handmade Rooster on the dial. According to the Lunar calendar, 2017 is the Year of the Rooster. For 2018, Chopard has decided to go 1 step farther and has just released a one-off piece known as the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac.Chopard’s L.U.C set is home to the brand’s most lavish artisanal watches, and also the L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac follows in this tradition. The highlight of this watch has to be the situation. It features a 43mm-wide 18k rose gold case that’s about 15mm thick, and the entire case is hand-engraved with all the 12 Chinese zodiac signs employing the champlevé technique. This means the case is first engraved by hand and then full of material. In the instance of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Nature of the Chinese Zodiac view, the instance is first engraved and then full of black patina to make images in the Chinese Zodiac.
Furthermore, part of the movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback where its dashing Côtes de Genève stripes are proudly displayed. The contrasting circular-grained and beveled movement bridges and a 22k gold micro-rotor are a rarity in automatic perpetual calendars.
The bridges have been adorned with a refined Côtes de Genève pattern and there is beveling and polishing work throughout. Of course, this motion boasts the Poinçon de Genève — also known as the Geneva Seal or Hallmark of Geneva. The Geneva Seal is a more infrequent quality certification, booked only for watches created in the canton of Geneva. Refreshed and rendered more rigorous a few decades ago, the Geneva Seal currently comprises a set criteria regarding not only the aesthetic qualities of the movement, but also that of the instance, as well as testing functionality claims including precision, power book, water resistance, and most of functions.Getting back to something I mentioned in the beginning is that the subject of the ‘Grand Cru’ designation of the watch. The title will eternally remain engraved on the case-back — and will likely induce sales reps and owners to elicit exactly the exact same perplexed and somewhat tortured explanation that a guy with the most distinguished and raised taste in wine would be the guy who wears this timepiece.There actually is a bit more to it than that, it just is not actually hauled about. The only way I can look at this seemingly irrelevant engraving and take it as something meaningful is through contemplating it since the Scheufele family shyly peeking through the thick Chopard curtain for an instant. Over half a century ago the Scheufele family bought Chopard, a dying company with only a few employees abandoned, and built it into one of their most successful and, to date, independent luxury jewelry and watch brands around. Chopard’s watch company — and, more importantly from our perspective, the quality Chopard L.U.C watches — is your brain- and love kid of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a well-spoken, humble, second-generation member of the Chopard-Scheufele era.
I’d have loved for its movement to have Chopard’s “Quattro” system of four piled mainspring barrels — that provides around eight times of power reserve. I’m not sure if Chopard intends to update its center perpetual calendar movement later on with more power book, but the L.U.C 96.13-L isn’t lacking. It’s two stacked mainspring barrels that offer 65 hours of power reserve. Of course, the movement is also an automatic using a strong 22k gold micro-rotor. Chopard recently published a similar looking watch in the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono (hands-on here at precisely the exact same platinum/blue dial combination). The Perpetual Chrono adds a 12 hour chronograph into the endless calendar pair of complications — even though it is founded on a totally different movement, and unlike the L.U.C Lunar One, which is an automatic, and the Perpetual Chrono is manually wound. If you are dying to get a chronograph/calendar combo, then the choice for you will be obvious — however as a more practical daily wearer, I enjoy the Lunar One a bit more.Not just is the Lunar One free in the sub-dial “ears” (a decorative thing) that aren’t popular with all people about the Perpetual Chrono’s dial, it is also cheaper by about $40,000 (when comparing platinum models). The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono can also be a larger watch coming from a 45mm wide circumstance, versus the Lunar One’s still large (such as a dress watch) 43mm wide size. Speaking of size, the Lunar One is not a small watch, and given the broad lugs, wears large to get a 43mm wide watch. That’s not a bad thing, and that I know of many people who like traditional watches in this particular size. With that said, provided that watch fans are very particular about the sizes they like, if you’re interested in a more modestly-sized apparel watch, then search for perpetual calendar watches elsewhere (there are arguably many).
As if the Geneva Seal is not enough, the Lunar One also bears a COSC-certified chronometer. This only applies to ultra-exclusive independent certification of excellence ensuring topmost quality when it comes to finishing, assembly, movement casing, and adjustment of the watch. At $67,900 it’s all worth it. For more info, please visit chopard.com