Replica Watches Essentials Introducing The Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Watch


By Jovan Krstevski

In his brief explanation on this note, Mr. Scheufele explained the link he sees and enjoys involving watch- and wine-making is that the two take a lengthy time to do well, need a lot of flexibility, as well as the understanding and utilization of both conventional and modern know-how. A main distinction is how mother nature can at the last minute strongly alter the quality of the wine — maybe not so much that of the opinion, he joked (now I could sense how mother nature and his own lack of compromise in looking for caliber have placed him through several struggles while trying to receive their own Bergerac vineyard up to his standards). The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is an appealing watch that legitimately presents a unique offering in a classic style tonneau watch that accomplishes both a slim case and an automatic movement. It is a shame to see a watch which gets all (or most of) the minor and major details right but just stumbles a little in messaging due to the way subtly its identity is communicated.The L.U.C lineup has always flown under the radar, allowing the watches speak for themselves. The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is an attractive watch that legitimately presents a unique offering in a classic style Tonneau watch that achieves both a slim case and a automatic motion. It’s priced at 22,300 CHF. Inspired by watchmaker and founding father Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C collection bearing his initials has been home to arguably some of Chopard’s finest contemporary work. Launched in 2005, the Lunar One has a new dial layout and a platinum event this year. No surprise here, however, the watch looks amazing and is still another object of bliss for everybody but 100 people who’ll get to call one of these their own.

Here comes the 20th anniversary of Chopard and boy oh boy, we’re in for a big surprise. The Manufacture states that about 17000 hours (more than 6 years) were spent on the research and development of their first ever minute repeater the L.U.C Full Strike. That’s a long study but how well is the final product doing right now, we’ll see below, read on.

So without further ado, here is the L.U.C Full Strike sporting a 42.5 mm and 11.5 mm thick Fairmined rose gold case. Its size is elegant, to be honest, plus it’s comforting to know that it follows the ethical standards of gold mining. I like it. What I like more about though is its balanced features, the smooth lines, and edges that ultimately resonate with its powerful chime which Chopard likens to a knife gently hitting a bohemian glass producing the perfect sound. On my part, I can only surmise but darn, the case looks adorable. The lugs are perfect from end to end not to mention the luxurious crown sitting at the 3 o’clock. Throw in a double-sided hand-sewn and plant-dyed CITES-certified alligator leather strap and we instantly get a ridiculously good looking timepiece. Note that the case itself holds the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark together with the movement which means it follows the highest Haute Horlogerie standards ever.

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Going to the open-worked gold dial, we can see that Chopard really showcases the beautiful solutions for a great sounding repeater. The substantial number of technical solutions seen on the semi-skeletonized dial makes time reading enjoyable on the L.U.C Full Strike. Such techniques like the glass being actually the loudspeaker is just terrific and we can even see the striking mechanism at the 10 o’clock. The way it works is that the glass is pretty much connected to the sapphire rings inside the watch. This results to a perfect conduit between the gongs and the glass which delivers sound directly outside the watch in full strength and personality. Moreover, there is just design exuberance on the dial such as the finely snailed seconds hand and the gilded Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands. I also like the sub-dials being integrated into the open-worked dial which are the power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock and the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. And of course, the railway-type minute track engraved under the sapphire crystal saves so much space too.

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Now to the heart of this beautiful timepiece we go. Powering the L.U.C Full Strike is the new calibre 08.01-L. We can talk so much about its mechanical how-to’s and three pending patents but I’m not going to do that instead, let’s look at what it really does. For one, the watch protects itself mainly by disconnecting the crown to the movement during chimes. This is cool because even though you’re not stupid enough to perform time-setting during chimes which seriously damages the movement, someone could play with your beautiful repeater watch.

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The watchmaker is setting the inertia wheel drum

Another interesting thing about the L.U.C Full Strike is that it resolves a repeater’s old problem, the silence between the last hours stroke and the first quarters stroke. It does this by superimposing the hours, quarters and minutes gear trains thereby mutually driving each other so when one has completed its task, it automatically triggers the next successfully maintaining a constant cadence, neat. I’m also amazed at how thin the movement is considering that there are over 500 parts on it. With its 60 hours of power reserve, it’s darn powerful.

Now if you’re interested, the L.U.C Full Strike comes in only 20-piece limited edition with a price of Swiss Francs 265,000 so get yours while supplies last. For more info, please visit chopard.com

Replica Buyers Guide Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black Watch for Valentine’s Day


By Harlan Chapman-Green

For those of you romantics who are wondering what to get your other half, maybe this time you should consider a cool new timepiece from what is perhaps the most romantic of all the jewellery companies: Chopard. Since 1988 Chopard has been responsible for timing one of the most prestigious motor racing events known a the Mille Miglia. The cars are sophisticated, and so the watches should be as well, luckily, the new watch does not disappoint.

Back in 2015 Chopard brought us the ultra sporty Mille Miglia GTS collection of watches, which came along with huge 12 and 6 O’clock markers (coated with Superluminova), deep black dials and a thin bezel. Now Chopard has come back with the all black version, stealthy, sleek and sexy in a way, the new GTS Automatic Speed Black watch. The Mille Miglia is a legendary racing event from the past, on par with the Indy 500 in the USA and the events held at Brooklands Motor Circuit during the first half of the 20th century. Although the last official Mille Miglia endurance race was held in 1957 those who heard about it revived it in a way in the late seventies as the Mille Miglia Storica for cars made before 1957. The historic races still follow the same route from Brescia to Rome and then back to Brescia to finish.

Chopard has equipped these watches with manufacture movements since 2015, beautifully decorated movements to go with Chopard’s sponsorship of what has been described as the “world’s most beautiful race” by Enzo Ferrari. The new GTS Automatic Speed Black combines the pizazz and glamour of the Mille Miglia races with the stealth looks and hardcore design of the black DLC coated stainless steel case. Like the other Mille Miglia GTS watches this one features the same narrow aluminium graduated bezel insert.

Perhaps my favourite detail is the Mille Miglia logo which surrounds the date window like a picture frame. Dotted around the watch are accents in the colour ‘Rosso Corsa’, that colour of red that Italian sports cars are known for, these are particularly prevalent on the dagger shaped hands which have also been given the Superluminova treatment. Even the sapphire on the back of the case has been given a dark tint to go with the black treatment of the case. Inside this watch is the automatic calibre Chopard 01.01-M which has been fully designed and produced in-house by Chopard themselves. It has been endowed with a strong 60 hours of power reserve and has been  certified to chronometer standards by COSC. The movement beats at 4Hz and also carries 31 jewels and is a slim 4.95mm overall, just under half the watch’s total 11.43mm total thickness.

The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black is perhaps best examined when you take the strap into consideration as well. Offered for this watch is a black rubber strap with grooves cut into it which evoke the tread patterns on Dunlop tyres used by the cars in the Mille Miglia. There’s also a black bead blasted and DLC coated clasp to the watch with the Chopard logo etched into a crescent shape. This makes it also more faithful to old motoring related signs of the past which would curve their writing rather than have it on a flat plane, it shows that for Chopard the clasp is clearly not an afterthought.

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac was probably designed with a Chinese client in mind. But even as a Chinese myself, I can’t help but think they likely took the Chinese styling cues too far. As for me, I think Chopard should have stopped at the engravings about the situation and abandon the dial simple. But hey, what do I know? I am convinced there is a market for marginally over-the-top unique pieces in this way. A staple of this Chopard L.U.C collection, the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One perpetual calendar, has become an underdog hero for luxury watch collectors since the model’s introduction over a decade ago. Today, I review a newer limited edition version of the L.U.C Lunar One (reference 161927-9001) in a 950 platinum case using a trendy blue dial. It’s a very Chopard solution, showcasing a lot of what the manufacturer works best, and in a cost that, comparatively speaking, is very decent.A couple of decades back, I seen Chopard’s manufacture center in Fleurier where they create L.U.C set watches. While all Chopard watches are technically speaking luxury products, the L.U.C set is where collectors actually put their focus given the moves. Many L.U.C watches are more conventional in their style, but with a healthy dose of (tasteful) masculinity depending on the proportions, sizes, and robust presence of the watches overall.Each L.U.C motion is produced in-house by Chopard, also contains finishing (decoration into the metallic components) which in my view rivals those which are regarded as the very best in the business. A good look at the in-house made quality L.U.C 96.13-L automated movement through the back of the case reveals careful focus, beautiful classic lines, superb surface treatments, and also a focus on practical usefulness that we watch lovers find in timepieces we actually wear.

These are limited to 1000 pieces only at the current time, so if you like it you can head straight over to Chopard’s website and buy direct today! The price is 6800 €. For more info, please visit chopard.com

Low Price Replica Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One World Time Watch Hands-On


By Harlan Chapman-Green

You may remember some time ago we presented you with a hands-on of the brand new L.U.C Chopard GMT One watch, perhaps my favourite release of this year alongside the new Type XXI from Breguet (that’s big praise in my head at least). If you paid attention to some of the photos you may have noticed that the GMT One wasn’t actually the only watch there. The group shots allowed us to give a sneak peek of the watch we present to you today, the Time Traveller One. It is perhaps a little embarrassing that I swooned over the GMT quite a bit, but don’t panic because there is an upside to this new collection L.U.C Chopard which will be revealed in time.

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I couldn’t wait. Perhaps the best part of the collection is that the case on the Time Traveller One watch has the same footprint as the GMT watch and the mass on the wrist is pretty similar too for the gold versions. Even the crowns are in the same places as well, where one controls the movement and the hands of the watch while the other moves the city ring around one step. This is a good method of ensuring control of expenditures and more importantly keeping a design unity of the watches within the range and any future models. The twin crown design would allow them to make a twin timezone watch that differs from the GMT, or they could put their knowledge to the test and design an alarm watch that still uses the two crowns made of 18K white gold.

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In terms of the actual world time complication itself, it does pretty much what you’d ask of it. The hands advance smoothly and the cities are nice and legible around the outside of the dial. When you actually advance the ring itself you’ll notice there’s a little bit of give in the mechanism and the click from the ring when it slots into the next position isn’t as precise as some other watches I’ve experienced in the past. Nevertheless, it was definitely a good idea to keep the uniformity and simplicity with a crown operated system rather than opting for a pusher mechanism which would make the watch appear asymmetrical, overcomplicated to work on and frankly too fiddly for something that’s supposed to be used on the fly. Isn’t it just nice to have something there to play with that doesn’t interrupt the movement? Even if you never explicitly use the time zone feature, you can always have a bit of fun moving it around whenever you find yourself a little lost on how to stay entertained, and there’s nothing wrong with that.

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The movement inside the watch doesn’t disappoint, either, the L.U.C 01.05L calibre features the same basic construction as the L.U.C 01.10L movement found in the GMT One watch, with the added complication of the world timer function. That means you’ll still get 60 hours from the barrels at 4Hz and, more importantly, the COSC chronometer rating. The decoration on the watch will definitely inspire those who are fans of minimalism, if you’re expecting ivy motifs or some such you’ll be mistaken. The rotor swings freely but doesn’t appear to have a wobble to it, showing the care and attention that has gone into it. Perhaps it would be nice to see a gold rotor on the gold watches and a platinum one on the white metal watches, but in the end, it’s not that big of a deal and the movement does look charming anyway.

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At this point, I would like to step back from the watch for a minute and talk a bit about the Chopard website. It’s from there you can do more than just flick through all of the pretty pictures in the catalogue (there are a lot, believe me, I checked). You can also buy from them, but not just any watch that anyone else can get. If you know your wrist size then Chopard will happily change the strap dimensions for you too, if you’re unsure there’s also a size guide to help you out. I did notice if you change the E-Shop from UK settings to USA you have to request to purchase the Time Traveller One, not something the UK website has.
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Allow me to highlight Chopard on still another element of the watch, which is the ring. L.U.C watches typically use one of the highest quality straps I know of, and in addition to being attractive, they are very sensible. For instance, a number of leather straps (calf, alligator, or otherwise) tend to be inflexible and uncomfortable to wear. Bending readily over your wrist, so you can find a comfortable fit straight away, which isn’t something I will say for so many high-end watches on the market. Attached to the alligator strap is a matching platinum folding deployant buckle. “Platinum perpetual calendar view” is about all you have to state in front of most watch fans in order to get them excited. Budget prepared, I would say most folks would be interested in having a product like this, which is both practical to wear and full of esteemed bragging rights. For me personally, complicated dress watches evoke the image of someone who is at precisely the exact same time classic and intellectual. This is the thinking man’s formal view (or the guy who regularly forgets what month and day it’s — and who also does not have an electronic calendar apparatus).So long as you’re open to the simple fact that a perpetual calendar’s usefulness and value are largely psychological, then you are in the right mental state to start enjoying a perpetual calendar view. I say all this given that most individuals are going to utilize their wristwatch as a quick reference to this date, rather than as their only, reliable calendar apparatus. So with this said, when interested in a perpetual calendar, I suggest seeking one that is otherwise comfortable, a fantastic monetary value, and comfy to wear. In a sense, the endless calendar complication needs to be a welcome addition (as opposed to some detractor) in an otherwise suitable daily wristwatch. Is the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One just this type of watch? I’d argue, most surely.

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The sad thing is that there will always be a downside, luckily it’s not the actual watch itself that has any kind of mechanical faults or anything like that, they were perfect when we tested them out. It’s more to do with the fact there is no steel version so it’s going to get a little pricy here. The platinum watch is $35,200, if you’re a fan of warmer metals and wanted 18K rose gold instead you’ll find it’s only (he says only) $22,500. You do get the same flawless strap as well with alligator leather on both sides for comfort and durability. I wish there was a little bit of decoration on the movement, if I had to ask for something. Particularly on the platinum time traveller, while continuity in a collection is key it’s nice to know that someone has spent some extra time pouring over each bit in the watch to make it super special, just for you. For more info, please visit chopard.com

Low Price Replica WristReview’s Top 5 Watches from Chopard


By Harlan Chapman-Green

One of the best things about being a watch blog editor is that we get to see so many different creations coming from companies all around the globe. From America to Japan and everywhere in between, watchmaking is experiencing a renaissance of sorts where people from all walks of life are making their dreams a reality. However, it’s fair to say the most inventive and exciting still come from Europe with Switzerland at the heart of the industry. At the centre of that is Geneva which is turf for some of the biggest groups in the industry, but one independent that’s always garnered our interest is Chopard, which is known for presenting slightly quirky and definitely left-field alternatives to some of the more ‘mundane’ timepieces. So, to show our recognition for them we’ve decided to choose our Top 5 watches and display them in our specialised order.

5. L.U.Chopard GMT One

Late last year (October 2016, to be precise) I embarked on a trip from university in Bristol all the way to big shiny London where a Jaguar XJ LWB awaited to whisk me away to Phillips to meet with Chopard. This was one of the two collections we came to see in the metal, the other being the GMT Time Traveller. Out of the two, the GMT One was my favourite, it’s a sleek dressy watch with a wonderful balance of sportiness thrown in there too. The twin crowns make for a more unusual appearance and the strap and buckle match the robustness you’d expect from this watch. The black dial version in steel works beautifully as a fine line between casual, dress and sports watches. Oh, we also like automatic movement visible through the back.

Chopard gets high marks for an attractive moon phase signal display, which eschews the normal style of this “M-shaped” window for a single that appears a bit more natural using a round window. A disk underneath moves in order to replicate the appearance of the present moon in the sky, which is surrounded by the theme of small stars (that Chopard asserts are visually representative of actual starts in the Northern Hemisphere). More so, the moon phase indicator window itself revolves round its own axis at the sub-dial. It is not a functional element in my understanding but does really assist the dial stay fresh and interesting. The moon phase layout component is intentionally noticeable and highlighted on these timepieces, whose name once more is “Lunar One. “Even though some of the dial complications can be adjusted via the crown, the L.U.C Lunar One instance includes four inset pushers onto it which can help to rapidly correct the calendar and moon phase advice if you leave the watch unworn for a while. I do also realize that the watch is an automatic, but given the quantity of complications here which may be a pain to adjust, it might have been nice to either have a power reserve indicator on the dial, or a pusher (like A. Lange & Söhne has on some versions) that allows you to progress all of the date information by one day at a time.I’m traditionally not a really major fan of platinum for a watch case material, however also the precious metal has been growing on me. Seeing this watch from afar, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was 18k white silver or gold rather than platinum. Although it’s true that the colour and finishing of platinum, steel, and 18k white gold are somewhat different, most individuals don’t really know the difference. More so, platinum is a heavy metal in weight, and also susceptible to scratching easily. So why then is this valuable metal much more precious than gold? My understanding is that it comes down to rarity given that platinum (when compared with gold) is much harder to find.

4. Chopard Superfast Split Seconds

One of the best things about this company in particular is that their demand isn’t massively high. that’s not to say they don’t have customers and aren’t liked by the community, but demand for Chopard’s watches isn’t as great as other companies in this price sector, but for those who are into their watches that presents benefits, enter the Superfast Split Seconds. A relatively inexpensive split seconds (rattrapante) chronograph in a sporty steel case. The automatic winding chronograph watch makes use of red for the components related to the chronograph such as sub-dials for the chronograph and the pusher unusually located at 8 O’clock. We like how the watch is understated about the complications it makes use of, it’s one you’d have to ask about to find out in full.

3. L.U.Chopard Perpetual Chronograph

Of course, one shouldn’t mistake the fact that a company makes affordable watches as being a company that cannot produce expensive and complicated ones too. Entire the Perpetual Chronograph, unveiled at Baselworld in 2016 this stunner packs in some of the most complicated and exquisite complications there are, specifically the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. Making use of five subdials and two date windows overall, the Perpetual Chronograph is a model which shows exemplary skill in watchmaking. Couple this with the fully visible moonphase at 6 O’clock and the twin date windows just under the logo and it’s easy to see why this one claims spot number three. Also, we really really love the sunburst guilloché on the dial, like, really really love it.

2. L.U.Chopard XPS Fairmined

It’s all well and good with all these different companies claiming to offer a different product for a lower price. We see them all the time, watches made out of wood for example, or independent watchmakers who fuss over every little detail but perhaps miss the big picture. The big picture is how we practically source materials we use all the time which is where, once again, Chopard steps in. The gold used in this watch is accredited to be Fairmined, this means that everyone involved in the production process from the choosing of the dig site to find the gold ore to the gold arriving at Chopard ready to be used. This could be big for us in ten years time if the whole industry gets on board with it. About this watch, we love the circular engraving of the dial, the sleek case and the decoration of the automatic winding chronometer grade movement. I take it back, this and the GMT One are my favourite watches from Chopard.

1. L.U.Chopard Triple Certification Tourbillon

Talking about revolutions in the watch industry, in at number 1 spot on our list is probably the most exemplary of them all. Don’t for a minute think that we don’t love the Full Strike watch as well, but a watch which can claim to be the only one with three separate hallmarks for quality? This tourbillon watch bears certification from COSC for its accuracy, like a Rolex has. It also bears the Seal of Geneva for its construction and finishing techniques like a Vacheron Constantin. Then it adds in a certificate from the Foundation Qualité Fleurier in as well, this is an extremely hard certificate to achieve as is demonstrate by the fact that only Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani and Manufacture Vaucher have attained it. Having this watch shows that Chopard really means business when it comes to complications and high standards, all 224 components are squeezed into the 43mm case with spectacular fashion.

Maybe the market shouldn’t overlook Chopard? Maybe they should? After all, those ‘in the know’ about the company can enjoy the products without all the flimflam associated with other companies, either way, keep an eye on Chopard at this year’s Baselworld. For more info, please visit chopard.com

Replica At Best Price Pre-Baselworld 2017: Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Watch (Live Pics)


By Jovan Krstevski

The 12 animals of the Zodiac are engraved chronologically on the situation middle with all the rat positioned on the upper right corner of this watch. Some highlights worth mentioning include the tiger, which is positioned on the crown; and the dragon and snake, which are intertwined between the base lugs of this case. The bezel is hand-engraved with the champlevé technique also and includes a pattern which calls to mind that the grids found on ancient Chinese doorways. Like the case, it’s hand-engraved using a lattice pattern that’s like that of the bezel. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is water-resistant to 30m and comes with a black tee alligator strap plus a fitting 18k rose gold pin buckle.The L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac features a number of complications. On the dial at 12 o’clock is a major date display. Below are the perpetual calendar indications. At 3 o’clock, we’ve got the month and leap year signs, and at 9 o’clock we’ve got the afternoon and 24-hour indicators. In the end, at 6 o’clock there is the tourbillon which makes a rotation every minute. This doubles up as the running moments sub-dial. Powering the opinion is the caliber 02.15-L that contains 353 components and Chopard’s Quattro system, so it’s four mainspring barrels along with a power reserve of 216 hours or 9 days. As stated earlier, it includes the ceaseless calendar complication along with a tourbillon mechanism, and it beats at 4Hz. The motion comprises extensive hand-finishing for example beveled bridges, gleaming screws and jewel countersinks, and continues to be given the Geneva Seal. The owner can also rest sure of exceptional timekeeping performance since it’s additionally chronometer-certified by COSC. The motion could be admired through the view’s sapphire display caseback.
The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru watch is a successor to the brand’s first L.U.C XP Tonneau watch that was released in 2001. This latest at Chopard’s deservedly vaunted L.U.C division is called after the distinction offered to the most superior levels of wine produced… Though, how these two distinct fields of fine living resonate we will attempt not only to clarify, but also detect ourselves.Reminiscent and similar to this Chopard L.U.C XP Tonneau watch, the Heritage Grand Cru is an odd piece from Chopard based on case shape alone — more on that in a bit. A glance in its spec sheet gives away an automatic, tonneau-shaped, 3.3mm thick motion wrapped within an 18kt rose gold, tonneau-shaped case that steps just 38.5mm by 38.8mm, coming in at a slender 7.7millimeter thick.The curved middle section of this case is vertical lace brushed while the bezel and area surrounding the display case-back is polished. Beyond the domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a white porcelain-type dial with black Roman numerals, with a second track surrounding the center of the dial. At 6 o’clock is the small seconds sub-dial, which can be snailed and contains a gilded seconds hand. The hour and minute hands are dauphine style and are also gilded.It isn’t unusual for gold hands on watches to be polished into a point where it is not even worth inquiring about legibility in higher-light ailments. The gilded, i.e. plated gold palms here are brilliant but are quite legible in the sunlight and at various angles. Set against the glossy, trendy porcelain dial, the dauphine-fusée hour and second hands are properly angular and thoughtfully proportioned to get a tonneau-shaped case. Fusée means rocket in French and also this specific sort of dauphine hands is Chopard’s own — something that I keep to very much enjoy regardless of the case shape and dial design they install it on. Their faceted sides and ideal length give them plenty of quantity — and no opinion could be taken seriously without appropriate palms.
The 12 animals of the Zodiac are engraved chronologically on the situation middle with all the rat positioned at the top right corner of this watch. Some highlights worth mentioning include the tiger, which can be positioned on the crown; and the snake and dragon, which are intertwined between the bottom lugs of this circumstance. The bezel is hand-engraved using the champlevé technique also and includes a pattern that calls to mind the grids found on historical Chinese doorways. Such as the case, it’s hand-engraved using a lattice pattern that is like that of the bezel. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is water-resistant to 30m and comes with a black tee alligator strap and a matching 18k rose gold pin buckle.The L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac includes lots of complications. Below are the perpetual calendar signs. At 3 o’clock, we’ve got the month and leap year signs, and at 9 o’clock we’ve got the afternoon and 24-hour indicators. Finally, at 6 o’clock there is the tourbillon that makes a rotation every minute. This doubles up as the running seconds sub-dial. Powering the opinion is your caliber 02.15-L that contains 353 components and Chopard’s Quattro system, which means it has four mainspring barrels along with a power reserve of 216 hours or 9 days. As mentioned before, it features the perpetual calendar complication along with a tourbillon mechanism, and it defeats at 4Hz. The movement comprises extensive hand-finishing such as beveled bridges, polished screws and stone countersinks, and continues to be given the Geneva Seal. The owner may also rest assured of exceptional timekeeping performance since it is also chronometer-certified by COSC. The motion could be admired through the watch’s sapphire display caseback.

If you remember back in 2005, we were all salivating for the much-awaited release of the gorgeous Lunar One by Chopard. So without further ado, this year we will be once again experiencing another refreshed version of the Lunar One. What makes this really special is that its source of inspiration is no other than its founding father Louis-Ulysse Chopard. This is also the reason why it is the flagship of the collection bearing the L.U.C initials, in short, it is arguably one of Chopard’s finest contemporary timepieces. The Geneva Seal-certified L.U.C Lunar One is certainly a sporty perpetual calendar watch with a moon phase indicator in a platinum case. What is more is that there will only be 100 pieces of the Lunar One… that is one heck of a restriction for a truly incredible watch.

Platinum has grown on me due to its psychological value. To begin with, you never truly forget you’re wearing a platinum opinion. Its weight makes it considerably more “old school” as a luxury product when weight helped one measure the worth of something. Thus, compared to a steel watch, you really realize that something different is on your wrist when sporting platinum (and there’s value in being reminded of that). Ironically, these days watchmakers are just as interested in making watches lighter in weight (maybe more curious) than making heavy gold or platinum watches.Platinum is also more discreet than yellow gold, or most other metals of gold. The same argument can be made for white gold. This means that while you as the wearer know you’ve got something precious, that fact is much less obvious for the people viewing the watch for you personally. Wearing it means that you need to have the ability to afford it, but in addition, it means you aren’t yelling that fact to the world. Be aware that while the case is gold, the crown is generated out of 18k white gold. That is likely because platinum is a harder-to-machine material, and also the particulars in the crown likely make it easier to create in gold.

At 43mm the polished platinum case with alternating brushed features seems a bit small for a chronometer particularly its 11.47mm thickness but don’t we all want a smaller complicated watch? Maybe Chopard just wants every space tightened up for a smaller watch but we can all surmise as we like but the designers and engineers sure know their thing and I’m just very glad how this turned out, a work of art timepiece worthy of a royalty. I love the platinum case, its lovely bezel and the subtle lugs and bezel.

The new Lunar One also has new dial design which is now featuring applied Roman numerals. The sub-dials seem a bit squeezed but this is so that readability is enhanced. The moon phase and calendar complications, along with the big date aperture at 12 are nicely designed against a deep blue sunray dial. The polished metals are a fascinating combo of delicious watchmaker’s marvels, I like it. A thing to note here is that the sunray dial radiates from the Chopard logo which is located halfway at the 12 o’clock point, quite a unique approach.

The new dial presents applied Roman numerals, a trio of subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the moon phase and calendar complications, along with the “big date” aperture, which communicates from earlier versions. But even in all that activity, the deep blue sunray dial is possibly the best possible canvas to comparison all the polished indicators and elements delineating the info on every register. Be aware that the sunray texture ratdiates not from the middle, but by the Chopard emblem. The Lunar One’s alternating brushed and polished platinum case measures an extremely full 43mm wide, and squeezing this watch in a event any smaller will be nearly impossible. The simple fact that the opinion is 11.47mm thick will probably keep it from appearing too large on the wrist for people who may be inclined towards a smaller case.The subdials do appear to me to be squeezing the numerals around them. It gives me the exact same feeling as when I am unfortunate enough to have the middle seat on a plane, packed with two individuals too wide for their own chairs. The sensation of these subdials being a little “bloated” certainly makes the idea of this opinion being even one millimeter narrower seem like a balloon-popping proposition.The Calibre 96.13-L beating within is regarded as Chopard’s crown jewel, barely a small accomplishment at a steady of pretty intriguing calibers at both ends of the complication spectrum. Requiring adjustment only once every 122 years (hypothetically speaking), the perpetual calendar nicely complements the moon phase indicator, but it’s no typical moon phase indicator using a static aperture displaying the current form of the moon. This one is an “astronomical moon phase” complication which orbits the 6:00 enroll in accordance with its proper stage and astronomical positioning in the night skies.

The heart of the new Lunar One is, of course, an in-house Calibre 96.13-L, an L.U.C. crown jewel operating at 28,800 vph and cranking a pretty lengthy power reserve of 65 hours. This is arguably touted as an accomplishment in a stable of pretty interesting calibers at both ends of the complication spectrum. This movement is requiring adjustments once every 122 years, that is certainly the job of your descendants. One of the special signature features of this movement is its astronomical moon phase complication orbiting the sub-dial at 6. The nighttime sky presentation is fascinatingly in realtime, this is indeed a lovely astronomical positioning that is somehow akin to the latest GPS devices, fooled me.

Chopard is a Swiss luxury business focused on watches, jewelry and accessoires. Chopard was founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard. The Chopard manufacture in Fleurier generates L.U.C movements that could be found in several Chopard timepieces. Notable Chopard watches for men and Chopard women’s watches comprise the Happy Diamonds, Imperiale, Classic Racing, L.U.C., Classic. Being a luxury focused brand Chopard is both popular for its Chopard men’s watches and the bead watches it creates for women.For the previous few years, Chopard has celebrated the Chinese Rolex by releasing a special edition of the L.U.C XP Urushi watch ever year. This season, as an example, it was the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rooster, which includes an amazing handmade Rooster on the dial. According to the Lunar calendar, 2017 is the Year of the Rooster. For 2018, Chopard has decided to go 1 step farther and has just released a one-off piece known as the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac.Chopard’s L.U.C set is home to the brand’s most lavish artisanal watches, and also the L.U.C Perpetual T: Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac follows in this tradition. The highlight of this watch has to be the situation. It features a 43mm-wide 18k rose gold case that’s about 15mm thick, and the entire case is hand-engraved with all the 12 Chinese zodiac signs employing the champlevé technique. This means the case is first engraved by hand and then full of material. In the instance of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T: Nature of the Chinese Zodiac view, the instance is first engraved and then full of black patina to make images in the Chinese Zodiac.

Furthermore, part of the movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback where its dashing Côtes de Genève stripes are proudly displayed. The contrasting circular-grained and beveled movement bridges and a 22k gold micro-rotor are a rarity in automatic perpetual calendars.

The bridges have been adorned with a refined Côtes de Genève pattern and there is beveling and polishing work throughout. Of course, this motion boasts the Poinçon de Genève — also known as the Geneva Seal or Hallmark of Geneva. The Geneva Seal is a more infrequent quality certification, booked only for watches created in the canton of Geneva. Refreshed and rendered more rigorous a few decades ago, the Geneva Seal currently comprises a set criteria regarding not only the aesthetic qualities of the movement, but also that of the instance, as well as testing functionality claims including precision, power book, water resistance, and most of functions.Getting back to something I mentioned in the beginning is that the subject of the ‘Grand Cru’ designation of the watch. The title will eternally remain engraved on the case-back — and will likely induce sales reps and owners to elicit exactly the exact same perplexed and somewhat tortured explanation that a guy with the most distinguished and raised taste in wine would be the guy who wears this timepiece.There actually is a bit more to it than that, it just is not actually hauled about. The only way I can look at this seemingly irrelevant engraving and take it as something meaningful is through contemplating it since the Scheufele family shyly peeking through the thick Chopard curtain for an instant. Over half a century ago the Scheufele family bought Chopard, a dying company with only a few employees abandoned, and built it into one of their most successful and, to date, independent luxury jewelry and watch brands around. Chopard’s watch company — and, more importantly from our perspective, the quality Chopard L.U.C watches — is your brain- and love kid of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a well-spoken, humble, second-generation member of the Chopard-Scheufele era.

I’d have loved for its movement to have Chopard’s “Quattro” system of four piled mainspring barrels — that provides around eight times of power reserve. I’m not sure if Chopard intends to update its center perpetual calendar movement later on with more power book, but the L.U.C 96.13-L isn’t lacking. It’s two stacked mainspring barrels that offer 65 hours of power reserve. Of course, the movement is also an automatic using a strong 22k gold micro-rotor. Chopard recently published a similar looking watch in the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono (hands-on here at precisely the exact same platinum/blue dial combination). The Perpetual Chrono adds a 12 hour chronograph into the endless calendar pair of complications — even though it is founded on a totally different movement, and unlike the L.U.C Lunar One, which is an automatic, and the Perpetual Chrono is manually wound. If you are dying to get a chronograph/calendar combo, then the choice for you will be obvious — however as a more practical daily wearer, I enjoy the Lunar One a bit more.Not just is the Lunar One free in the sub-dial “ears” (a decorative thing) that aren’t popular with all people about the Perpetual Chrono’s dial, it is also cheaper by about $40,000 (when comparing platinum models). The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono can also be a larger watch coming from a 45mm wide circumstance, versus the Lunar One’s still large (such as a dress watch) 43mm wide size. Speaking of size, the Lunar One is not a small watch, and given the broad lugs, wears large to get a 43mm wide watch. That’s not a bad thing, and that I know of many people who like traditional watches in this particular size. With that said, provided that watch fans are very particular about the sizes they like, if you’re interested in a more modestly-sized apparel watch, then search for perpetual calendar watches elsewhere (there are arguably many).

As if the Geneva Seal is not enough, the Lunar One also bears a COSC-certified chronometer. This only applies to ultra-exclusive independent certification of excellence ensuring topmost quality when it comes to finishing, assembly, movement casing, and adjustment of the watch. At $67,900 it’s all worth it. For more info, please visit chopard.com

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Form 390 Watch For Your Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Replica Wholesale


Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Today marks the launch of the Parmigiani watches any good Replica Bugatti Type 390, a watch designed to go with the latest Bugatti Chiron hypercar. In line with most of the pieces that came from Parmigiani’s now 13-year partnership with carmaker Bugatti, the Type 390 is another very unusually shaped piece filled edge to edge with an equally unique movement. Just like the Bugatti Chiron, the Parmigiani Type 390 also appears to have been beautifully and exceedingly over-engineered, so as to get the attention of even the most bored and spoiled watch and car lover.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

While cars must comply with ever stricter emissions regulations and safety requirements – well, some did get away with cheating their way around them, but that’s for another blog to discuss – watchmakers remain free to do whatever the heck they want, so long as they stay within the often loosely interpreted limitations of wearability, reliability, and functionality. Parmigiani Fleurier sounds very proud of the Type 390’s allegedly effortless tackling of all these issues.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

A variation of the Parmigiani Type 370, originally launched in 2004.

A quick glance 13 years back reveals an interesting fact: Parmigiani was among the very first luxury watchmakers to make complicated watches in highly unusual shaped cases – something perfectly common today, in the age of MB&F HM4s, Deep Space Tourbillons, and Hublot LaFerraris. But back in 2004, when the oddly shaped and equally obscurely named Parmigiani Type 370 came out, there had been very few others like it before.

Well over a decade later, the Type 390 is a borderline insane arrangement of exceedingly niche engineering solutions. Here’s a random selection, just so you can appreciate what you’re getting yourself into when you try to wrap your mind around this watch. There’s a planetary gear system, a worm screw “angle transmission,” a co-axial triangular barrel coupling system, a 12° articulated case, a torque limiter, a bevel gear differential, rod clamp that eliminates the setting lever, yoke and yoke spring, the world’s smallest ball bearing, and a flying tourbillon with variable moment of inertia balance wheel, and a Breguet overcoil. Basically none of these, maybe save for the overcoil, will you find in an ordinary timepiece.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

The weird, wedge-like shape of the Parmigiani Fleurier Type 390’s case will appear familiar and yet strangely odd when compared to the Type 370, or even something more recent, like the Super Sport (hands-on here). What Parmigiani has done is re-engineer the movement to flip the way time is displayed: previously it used to be in the tubular section, but now that segment is facing away from the wearer and it is the steeply angled and intricately framed rectangular bit that rocks the time display, hence offering a much larger and more legible dial.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

This meant that the movement had to be packed all into that cylindrical module, which now incorporates the two, series-coupled barrels that provide a total of 80 hours of power reserve, along with some very clever gearing to transmit that power in all three directions. First of all, the barrels are linked to the clever power reserve indicator located right behind them through a bevel gear differential.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Second, through a complex gearing system, the barrels are connected to the flying tourbillon that caps the cylinder from the other end. Last, the whole movement is linked to the perpendicular time display through an “angle transmission” that allows it to transfer energy through a 90° angle into the display on the dial.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

All this remarkable complexity goes strongly against what many will only see as a weird, wedge-shaped watch, without ever giving a second thought to how it could possibly function. Surely, an ultra-thin movement could’ve been crammed under that angled dial, but that would clearly be disappointing from a watch produced by a brand with a vertically integrated manufacturing background – and, mind you, a watch designed and produced to go with the fastest production car in the friggin’ world.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Again, the perpendicular dial creates all sorts of challenges, all mainly related to getting the tubular movement to communicate its timekeeping results towards a time display set in a completely different plane. The angle transmission that solves all this actually is an aptly named “worm screw” that meshes with the massive, though largely hidden wheel that is just under the largest wheel in the center. Look for the worm screw in the upper right segment of the image above – the wheel meshes with the large teeth of a wheel that’s two layers under the black PVD-coated bridge. It’s an ingenious solution and once again something you won’t see in watches with ordinary round or square cases.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

The PF390 cylindrical caliber was designed and produced wholly in-house, save for the jewels and hands – even the Breguet overcoil balance spring was produced by Parmigiani’s high-precision manufacturing subsidiary called Atokalpa. At the end of the 7-layer movement, we find the flying tourbillon that runs at an impressive 4Hz – no low-frequency traditional BS compromises there. The entire movement is composed of 302 components, a very high component count for a watch with only hours, minutes, and power reserve.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Before the plates are black PVD coated, they receive haute horlogerie grade hand finishing that involves beveled and hand polished edges on all the weird and remarkably complex, partially skeletonized plates and bridges, as well as on countersinks and wheel spokes. Despite the fact that Parmigiani has its own dial manufacture, they opted not to use one and rather went with a cool, skeletonized overlay frame.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

The case itself is a unique creation as well and, having seen a number of previous Parmigiani-Bugatti collaboration high-end pieces, this really is an evolution over those, comparable to how the Chiron went beyond the Veyron’s aesthetics. It’s noticeably more angular and a much more aggressive looking thing, produced in 18k white or rose gold. Strong lines and long, wide, sweeping curves meet in the 42.2mm by 57.7mm case that, like all previous Bugatti watches, is remarkably comfortable on the wrist.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

A total of four anti-reflective sapphire crystals allow for a closer look at this all-new and unique movement, revealing finer details like the flying tourbillon that appears to have been hermetically sealed off behind a porthole kind of aperture, or like the two barrels that sport the signature of Louis Chiron, Bugatti’s legendary racing driver on one, and the “Le vieux renard” (the old fox) also in reference to him on the other. Frankly, I think it would have been more appropriate to have Michel Parmigiani’s signature on the other one, not this fox nonsense.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Yes, all these things are solutions to problems desperately sad and/or uninteresting and/or unhappy people would say shouldn’t have existed in the first place – and, from a strictly sensible approach, they’re actually right. You don’t need a watch dial to come in at a 12° angle to be able to read the time just how you don’t need a car capable of doing well over 400kph to get from A to B.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

However, it appears that when watchmakers are faced with the challenge of creating a watch that goes with a hyper- or supercar, they think big and think as far out of the box, as they possibly can. It’s their great, often once in a lifetime opportunity to create something completely bonkers and get away with it – just think of the double-balance Roger Dubuis Aventador S, the Hublot LaFerrari, this Blancpain Lamborghini that came with both a tourbillon and a carrousel for no good reason whatsoever, or, of course, this Parmigiani Fleurier Type 390. It’s a brand flexing its muscles, and that’s all good!

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 Watch For The Bugatti Chiron Hypercar Hands-On

The Type 390 actually looks really cool when worn the wrong way around – and the time is facing away as well, which can be a plus sometimes…

It’s not just muscles but bank accounts that these hyper-creations make flex. Price for the Bugatti Chiron hypercar starts at around $2,500,000, while a watch from the 10-10 piece limited runs of the Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 will set you back 295,000 CHFparmigiani.com

Eventually he would come to set up a solid working relationship with Pierre Landolt, president of the Sandoz Family Foundation, together with the two bonding within their shared love for watchmaking. Fast forward another decade or so and Michel Parmigiani, with the financial backing of their Sandoz family, was eventually able to obtain the production means and resources to make a brand that would bear his own name.This conveniently brings us back into the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronomètre timepiece we are taking a look at today. As I alluded to briefly in the introduction, this new model, unveiled at SIHH earlier this season, is based on the first watch made by Michel Parmigiani in 1996; both time-zone Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time. It’s worth making the distinction here that this is a reinterpretation of the first model, not a diversion and so while there are many shared design characteristics, the Toric Chronomètre is quite much its own opinion.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe ‘Guilloche’ Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Replica For Sale


Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At SIHH 2017, Parmigiani Fleurier released two beautiful new limited-edition versions of one of my favorite watches from the brand, the Ovale Pantographe. It is largely the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe we are familiar with, but with some newly added exclusivity for those people who wanted a good reason to spend about 60% more on the watch. To see what is new, you must literally look beyond the surface, as these versions look strikingly similar to previous limited-edition Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe watches from 2013.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

What is similar to those models is the “Guilloche” Barley Grain Dials with applied, versus printed, hour numerals. Although the 2013 limited editions had the hands and hour markers in blue, these 2017 Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe limited-edition models have the hands and applied hour markers in chic black. “Guilloche” is in quotes as the dial is not indeed produced from a rose engine but rather stamped, as Parmigiani readily explains. I do admit that if the dial were indeed authentic machine engraving it would be very appealing. I was recently able to test my own skills with a real guilloche machine doing this exact barleycorn pattern and know how difficult and time consuming it is. Doing a single dial could take hours and hours of work.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani seems to get brands like Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe as benchmarks, but Parmigiani doesn’t now enjoy their branding. I’m not saying those brands have improved connections with consumers, but rather that they have more, and much more widespread relationships with consumers. The man who receives a Patek Philippe Calatrava dress watch is frequently less interested in watches and much more interested in the brandnew. Parmigiani is, rather, competing (in my view) with additional “watch lover” brands that are little more market such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chopard, as well as Rolex’s dress watches, which are a little more niche in their own collection. When taking this under account, the Parmigiani option is often the most expensive (for this amount of complication). At the exact same moment, it may be the situation that Parmigiani’s pricing is logical. Three-hand dress watches in 18k gold cases vary in price from a couple thousand bucks to probably $100,000 (for very exotic or hand-crafted models). As a watch nerd, the pricing for the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre may feel a bit away, but also for other consumers surveying a bigger array of the market, the just under $20,000 price of those pieces might be exactly what they intend to cover a watch like this.

What’s truly new is the movement, which isn’t different, but rather done in solid 18k rose gold. So now both the Ovale case and the in-house made Parmigiani PF111 movement are in gold. I recently covered another Parmigiani watch with a gold movement, which was a steel-cased limited edition of 10 pieces Kalpa Hebdomadaire Anniversaire model. That model’s movement was decorated differently with more hand engraving, while the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe with Barley Corn Dial and Gold Movement has more traditional Geneva stripes on the gold movement. With that said, the movements in each of the watches are structurally almost identical.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The PF111 movement is manually-wound and comprised of 267 parts. It operates at 21,600bph (3Hz) with a long power reserve of eight days (192 hours). The movement here uses a disc under a crescent-shaped power reserve indicator to to display the remaining power via color – it goes from black to white as the power reserve winds down. There is also an “open” date display over 6 o’clock that, in this instance, helps visually balance out the dial. The Parmigiani Fleurier logo is right above 12 o’clock, and arguably almost hidden a bit on the watch face.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

In addition to the Ovale-style case shape, the Parmigiani Ovale Panotgraphe is so well-regarded because of the awesome system of telescopic hands which uses more than 30 parts in mostly titanium. In black, the hands look stately and legible. Their purpose by design is to grow and shrink in size so as to match the varying dimensions of the non-round case shape as they move around to indicate the time as we explain in more detail in our hands-on article here. In the modern sense, this is a Parmigiani creation, but the actual invention of this concept is credited to a pocket watch from 1780 that Michel Parmigiani himself restored. Like many talented modern-day watch makers, Mr. Parmigiani really taught himself watchmaking through the art and discipline of restoring antique horological creations.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Parmigiani Ovale case is a special character in the watch world given its unique design, beautiful and comfortable wearing experience, and charming visual personality. The combination of distinctive Parmigiani signature teardrop-style lugs and oval shape make it a winner for being different in the category of dress watches were many things look more or less the same to me. Coming to this conclusion isn’t easy just by looking at it, but if you view our hands-on and review articles on the Parmigiani Ovale Pantograph, you can come to your own conclusion on how well the design might sit on your wrist.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The case for this set of Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 2017 limited-edition watches comes in either 18k white or 18k rose gold, each with the same dial and black Hermes alligator strap. Size is 37.3mm wide by 45mm tall and 12.5mm thick (water resistant to 30 meters). The 2017 Parmigiani Pantographe “Guilloche” Barley Grain Dial And Gold Movement watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces in each case material with a price of $85,000 each. parmigiani.ch

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Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde is the latest in the Toric line of watches, which represent the relatively conservative side of the brand with a traditional case and signature knurled bezel. This new-for-2017 model is a dual time zone watch which allows the wearer to set a second time right down to the minute, which is useful for tracking time zones that are offset by half-hour or even quarter-hour differences. This is unlike traditional GMT watches which only measure full-hour increments.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The precision and functionality of the second time zone indicator is possible thanks to the caliber PF317, an automatic movement with a module designed and supplied by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (interviewed here about his First Grail Watch). With his company AgenHor, Wiederrecht has been making waves recently for his impressive work with movement and module design and is the man behind the AgenGraphe movement, the module in the Slim d’Hermès Perpetual Calendar (hands-on here), and of course, the Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde’s module.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The caliber PF317, as mentioned earlier, displays time in two time zones to the minute with a day/night indicator for both time zones and, to top it all off, a retrograde date indication. The movement beats at 28,800bph and provides 50 hours of power reserve which is more than adequate. As you might expect, this is a lot of mechanics to pack into a wristwatch movement and the module is significantly larger in diameter than the base movement. Parmigiani has smartly designed the case back to work with this, with the display portion only revealing the base movement with its 22ct rose gold rotor and Cotês de Genève decoration.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

If we flip over to the “white-grained” (even though it looks more off-white in these pictures) dial, we see that this is a busy presentation and can appear a little confusing at first glance. The sub-dial with rhodium-plated hands at 12 o’clock is the second time zone. It is highlighted with a gold ring but is subtle enough to not be distracting. To its right is the day/night indication for this second time zone. The primary time zone is featured on the main dial with javelin-shaped hands made from rose gold and filled with Super-LumiNova. The hand with the red crescent moon at the tip is not the seconds hand but the retrograde date.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The manner in which the first three and last three numbers for the date track are flipped around may prove annoying to some people – and I’m not entirely sure it was necessary to flip them in this case. The sub-dial at 6 o’clock indicates both running seconds and the day/night for the primary time zone. In my opinion, the day/night indicator for the primary time zone is redundant. While I can appreciate the mechanical complexity in having it there, it adds more complexity to an already packed dial. The entire dial is encircled by a railway track chapter ring and applied rose gold hour markers. Overall, Parmigiani has done a good job at balancing out the many elements of the dial, and it becomes pretty intuitive to read after about the first minute.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The Super-LumiNova is something that stood out to me. In the world of haute horlogerie, manufactures sometimes forget the value of modern features such as lumed hands and an AR-coated crystal. For a watch to be versatile and a daily wearer, it has to have both good design and some modern features. Parmigiani seems to recognize this as they provide both lume on the hands and double AR-coating on the sapphire crystal.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

All of this is housed in the signature rose gold Toric case, which was Michel Parmigiani’s first design back in the ’90s. A signature design element is the knurled bezel which gives the classic design an interesting twist. You’ll notice that there are two crowns, the top is to set the second time zone independently while the bottom is to set both time zones simultaneously. The watch is on the larger side at 42.8mm in diameter due to the module and the need for dial space to fit the various indications. The gently angled lugs are polished and offer a nice contrast to the texture of the bezel. The case is rated to 30m of water resistance which is adequate for a dress watch.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

For those who may find the design too conservative and prefer something edgier, it’s worth noting that the same movement is available in the Parmigiani Tonda Hémisphères that launched in 2010. I personally prefer the dressier, refined presentation of the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde. The highlight of this watch, however, is not the design but the movement and its ability to track the second time zone down to a minute. The Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde ships on a black Hermès alligator leather strap with deployment buckle and is available at retailers for a price of $29,500. parmigiani.com

A total of four anti-reflective sapphire crystals allow to get a closer look in this all-new and exceptional motion, showing finer details like the flying tourbillon which appears to have been hermetically sealed away behind a porthole kind of aperture, or similar to the 2 barrels that sport the touch of Louis Chiron, Bugatti’s legendary racing driver on a single, along with the “Le vieux renard” (the old fox) also with regard to him on another side. Frankly, I think it would have been more appropriate to have Michel Parmigiani’s signature on the other one, maybe not this fox nonsense.Yes, all these items are answers to issues desperately gloomy and/or dull and/or unhappy people would say shouldn’t have been around in the first place — and, by a strictly sensible strategy, they are actually perfect. You do not need a watch dial up to come in at a 12° angle to have the ability to read the time precisely the way you don’t want an automobile capable of doing well over 400kph to purchase from A to B.However, it appears that when watchmakers are confronted with the challenge of creating a watch that goes with a hyper- or supercar, they think big and think up to out of the box, even as possible. It’s their great, frequently once in a lifetime chance to create something completely bonkers and eliminate it — just think of the double-balance Roger Dubuis Aventador S, the Hublot LaFerrari, this Blancpain Lamborghini that came with both a tourbillon plus a carrousel for absolutely no good reason at all, or, of course, this Parmigiani Fleurier Type 390. It’s a fresh flexing its muscles, and that is all good!

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Replica Buying Guide


The weird, wedge-like form of this Parmigiani qualit�� fleurier Replica Type 390’s situation will appear familiar and yet strangely odd when compared to the Sort 370, or even something newer, like the Super Sport (hands-on here). Everything Parmigiani has done will be re-engineer the motion to flip how time is displayed: previously it used to be in the tubular section, but now that section is facing away from the wearer and it’s the steeply angled and intricately framed rectangular piece that stones the time display, hence offering a much larger and more legible dial.This meant that the motion had to be packed all into this cylindrical module, which now incorporates both, series-coupled barrels that provide a total of 80 hours of power book, combined with some very clever gearing to transmit that power at all 3 directions. To start with, the barrels are directly connected to the clever power reserve indicator situated right supporting them through a bevel gear differential.Second, via a complex gearing system, the barrels are connected to the flying tourbillon that caps the cylinder from the other end. Last, the whole motion is linked to the vertical time display through an “angle transmission” that allows it to move energy via a 90° angle into the screen on the dial.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At SIHH 2017, Parmigiani released an interesting and subtle “new” watch with the Toric Chronometre. It is actually a modernized interpretation of the first watch that Michel Parmigiani designed in 1996. The 2017 Parmigiani fleurier forma xl Replica Toric Chronometre is a bit larger, but in many ways is said to be a very faithful manifestation of Mr. Parmigiani’s original vision from the mid-1990s. Don’t forget that the brand began as a function of Michel’s vision, combined with the monetary support of his “patron,” the Sandoz family.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Given the penchant for whimsy and flair that I’ve come to appreciate from Parmigiani, the Toric Chronometre is a resolutely sober watch. It does very much feel like a product of the 1990s. By that, I mean a very sensible and to-the-point dial mixed with some light aesthetic flair, as well as the style of most of the work in the case. In many instances, this is a formula for a rather nice watch. These days, however, where “brand identification” is very important, this is not always what a consumer is looking for.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Brand identification, as I refer to it here, is the notion that you can recognize the company that made a product just by seeing the shape or design of that product. Many watchmakers either explicitly or implicitly ask themselves whether or not they can recognize their own products when seeing them on someone’s wrist from across the room. If the answer is “yes,” then a brand has achieved a high degree of brand identification, if the answer is no, then often times brands are left with products that do not have “brand” appeal. Though this is really a larger topic for another conversation.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

With the distinctive look of most Parmigiani timepieces, I asked myself how much the 2017 Parmigiani Toric Chronometre looks like a Parmgiani of today. The case does, for sure, though it needs a close inspection to identify. The dial is a qualified “yes,” since it uses brand elements such as fonts and other aesthetic touches, but is at the end of the day a rather straightforward time+date dial with Arabic hour numerals. That being said, the legibility is very good.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Mr. Parmigiani himself is typically found speaking about architecture – a great passion of his. The Parmigiani Toric Chronometre (like many Parmigiani watches) is, among other things, inspired by ancient Greek architecture. The case itself is remarkably complicated in form, even though it looks simple from a distance. The bezel, case middle, and lugs are each their own distinct visual elements and have been rather harmoniously blended together. It is actually among the nicer “simple” round-case watches out there. I have to say that while Parmigiani’s dial design appeal is a bit of a mixed bag, the brand’s cases are mostly very appealing to me.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At 40.8mm wide (and 9.5mm thick), the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre wears comfortably and modestly as a modern dress-style watch. As stated, the intricate details of the case such as the knurled bezel and side profile need a closer inspection to be fully appreciated. I think it serves as a very nice frame for the functional dial.

Parmigiani offers the case in either 18k white or red gold. Each gold version is available with either the black or white dial colors. All models have gold hands, which I think is a nice touch. We also see an “open” date window. I am usually not a massive fan of these, but the execution is not bad here and seems to give the date (located above 6 o’clock) more than a passive purpose for the overall design. Under the date window is the “Chronometre” name of the watch on the dial, which is a design detail that I don’t mind.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Dial proportions on the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre are pretty nice, if not very classic. A more modern interpretation of this dial would have easily had the hour numerals be larger in size. Not that one way is better, but it sort of reminds me of all the little tweaks Rolex has done to its Submariner over the years, as the sizes of the hands and hour markers have shifted in subtle ways. What consumers prefer is often a very personal choice. With that said, the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre no doubt has a lot of “white space” on the dial – the appeal of which is going to be very subjective to the consumers.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

When it comes to sheer details, Parmigiani has always earned top marks. As I said, even the fonts for the hour numerals (as well as the date numerals) are on brand. Then you have the distinctive hands (with lume-painted tips) and the crescent moon counterweight on the seconds hand. You also have the contrasting colors between the date disc and the dial – which add character, and no doubt some aesthetic controversy. These are all small details which help upgrade the overall experience of an otherwise simple watch. At times, the dial looks so sober it feels like a vintage military-style watch – albeit one clearly for use by an officer (of high rank).

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Inside of the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre is the in-house made Parmigiani caliber PF331 automatic movement. UPDATE, the PF331 is COSC Chronometer-certified (even though I previously said it was not since the information from the brand did not make this clear), which helps support the “Chronometre” part of the watch’s name. Visible through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback is the movement which features a very high level of decoration by Parmigiani. Their movements do have a considerably high-end feel for something that is produced in this manner.

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Replica Guide Trusted Dealers


HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

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The HH Journal is an online publication covering watchmaking news in all its forms and is published by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) which was created in 2005. The FHH aims to raise awareness and promote the values of fine watchmaking on an international basis. The HH Journal is written by twenty journalists located throughout the major global markets and takes a comprehensive approach to watchmaking, including technical as well as economic, historical, and human aspects. The HH Journal is dedicated to exceptional products with a daily update of its written or multimedia content. See some examples of recent HH Journal content below and click on the headline to read the full article.

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

Panerai’s Quiet Revolution

Panerai are no strangers to innovation. During SIHH 2017, they lived up to their reputation as a “laboratory of ideas” when they produced BMG-TECH, a metallic glass new to fine watchmaking, and the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days – 49mm which requires no lubrication and is guaranteed for 50 years. The biggest difficulty the firm faces is holding onto the true fan club of Paneristi whilst also bringing in new fans. What the brand does to hold both old and new fans is hide ground-breaking developments within classic “Panerai-looking” watches. So, how does all this new technology really work?

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

Extraordinary Van Cleef Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels showed visitors “The Poetry of Time” with their Automate Fée Ondine on the opening day of SIHH this year. The idea was to harness the power of large mechanics and tell a far more elaborate story than those made possible by the Poetic complication watches. The unique piece has a manual-winding movement with: animation on demand with 5 cycles of 50 seconds when the mechanism is fully wound, a clock with retrograde hours and an eight-day power reserve. When still, it shows a sleeping fairy among water lilies. When set in motion, she awakens, lifts her head and gently moves her wings, meanwhile the lily leaves ripple and the largest flower blossoms to reveal a butterfly that rises from its centre.

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

Parmigiani offers the case in either 18k white or reddish gold. Each gold variant can be obtained with either the black or white dial colours. All models have gold palms, which I think is a nice touch. We also observe an “open” date window. I’m usually not a massive fan of these, but the implementation is not bad here and appears to provide the date (located above 6 o’clock) more than a passive purpose for the total layout. Under the date window is the “Chronometre” title of this watch on the dial, and it is a design detail that I do not mind.Dial proportions on the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre are fairly fine, if not too classic. A more contemporary interpretation of this dial would have easily had the hour numerals be larger in dimension. What consumers want is often a very personal choice. That said, the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre no doubt has a great deal of “white space” on the dial – the allure of that is going to be very subjective to the customers.

Sleeping Beauties Awaken

The ‘80s returned at this year’s SIHH in the form of three complete collections of watches from Cartier, IWC, and Girard-Perregaux, and the brands clearly had women on their mind, too. This trio of collections has confirmed three things within fine watchmaking: vintage is here to stay, ladies’ watches deserve to be more than diamond encrusted, smaller versions of their male counterparts, and brands are bringing their past back to life with a bang. Without further ado… we introduce to you: Cartier’s Panthère, IWC’s Da Vinci, and Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato.

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

Simple watches, complex problems

One of the most noticeable trends at SIHH was brands ‘toning down’ their offerings and extending their entry-level ranges. They have finally found their footing in reality but there is still one unknown factor: the customer, preferably young and less inclined towards luxury. Given the sharp decline in Swiss Watch exports over the past 18 months, fine watch brands have no other choice than to consider how suited their products are to an inventory-heavy market, where brick-and-mortar distribution finds itself increasingly in competition with online sales. The HH Journal looks at what brands are doing to reach new audiences and to entice the “new generation of luxury buyers.”

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

Chrono dearest

The chronograph is arguably the most useful complication within fine watchmaking. A challenge for watchmakers, but one which lends a sporty feel to watches. How often do you see someone going about their business, to then stop and use their chronograph? And yet, when it comes to the chronograph watch, there are seemingly endless choices. Has it come to the point now where the use of a chronographs becomes a measure of a watchmaker’s skill, rather than a timepiece choice for its functionality. The HH Journal takes a closer look at the new releases of SIHH 2017 and ultimately whether the chronograph is still relevant.

HH Journal 107 By Fondation De La Haute Horlogerie Announcements

Michel Parmigiani, the horological heart doctor

Michel Parmigiani has made restoration an art form. However, 20 years ago he set up his own brand, one whose Senfine movements promise a new “historic” departure for fine watchmaking. The Parmigiani Fleurier Restoration Workshop is truly one of a kind, and because of its founder, restoration is as much of an art form as it is a science. He has been cited saying, “As a restorer, I like to say that five hundred years of history have passed through my hands.” A closer look at what makes Michel Parmigiani and his brand Parmigiani Fleurier so special.

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