The movement is relatively slim at 3.5mm thick, and also the automated rotor is both engraved and generated from strong gold.In typical Parmigiani style, the situation is fitted with an extremely nice Hermès alligator strap and fitting 18k gold buckle. The black strap is, as usual, beautiful and also comfortable to wear. Though, by nature, these straps need to be replaced every few years because of wear.My two complaints regarding the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre are easy. First is that while the sapphire crystal has AR-coating on the bottom, they need to have it on the very best also. Watch brands have this old belief which top-applied AR coating can easily scratch off and seem bad. This is only true when the application is done incorrectly. Sapphire crystals alone aren’t enough. Brands will need to make sure the crystals will be the exact right shape, as well as properly AR-coated out of both sides. New coatings and other treatments can make it very tricky to damage or scratch the AR coatings. I say all of this because I think the icing on the cake that may make many “great” watches “good” is investing the time and resources in making sure the crystal (that is nearly always purchased from an outside provider) perfect. The crystal is the window into the dial, and the dial holds the entire functional value of a wristwatch.
Bugatti founder Ettore Bugatti states “Nothing is too beautiful… Nothing is too expensive,” and nothing helps to illustrate this point more clearly than the next evolution in the partnership between Bugatti and Parmigiani Fleurier. Taking a page from the luxury car manufacturer’s playbook Parmigiani is offering the completely customizable Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390. Customers are given the opportunity to customize the exterior of their Bugatti Type 390 to express their own unique personalities. The PF390 movement inside also defies traditional watchmaking with its cylindrical form, made to mimic the Bugatti Chiron’s motor.
Customers have control over the materials used for the case, buckle, and strap. In addition, the customer will also have control over the structure of the dial itself including the indices and hands, as well as the decorative elements on the edges of the case. As a cherry on top, the customer is able to pick the color of the sapphire crystal enclosing the movement. All of these options will yield extremely unique pieces that exemplify the customer’s individuality. The one presented here today is a unique piece showcasing the abilities of Parmigiani’s customization process.
Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier Model: Bugatti Type 390 Dimensions: 42.2mm x 57.7mm Case Material: White gold & black carbon as a default, but these watches are customizable Crystal/Lens: 4 Anti-reflective sapphire crystals, with a magnifier on the tourbillon cage Movement: In-House PF390 hand-wound movement Frequency: 28,800vph/4Hz Power Reserve: 80 hours Strap/Bracelet: Black and red Alcantara strap Price & Availability: $300,000 (Unique piece available in June 2018)
Obviously, Parmigiani has created something that transcends a mere timepiece. This will be a piece of artwork that is worn on the wrist made to represent the owner specifically. I would like to know more about what options are available to the end user. The case materials are stated to be white gold and carbon, but could a customer opt for platinum if they felt especially frisky?
Aesthetically, the Bugatti Type 390 is an interesting study in haute-horology. The sloped case design, cylindrical movement, and inlaid carbon fiber in this unique piece will not be to everyone’s taste, but ultimately the point is to change that if desired, right? I think offering these options sets this piece apart in a way. It will allow a customer that is willing to spend the $300k price of admission to create something that only they will have. While I am not that customer, I can appreciate the value in that.
I think the partnership of Bugatti and Parmigiani is one that will continue to bear good fruit. They are offering something a little more unique and perhaps tailored to the type of clientele that a watch of this caliber is bound to attract. The look of the watch itself may be polarizing, but again, this can be changed to suit. The Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 will be available for $300,000. However, this does not account for the level of customization and I wonder how a change in materials will alter the price. parmigiani.com
The watch industry is currently experiencing a season of change. This is especially true for those brands under the Richemont Group that dominate the important Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). At no time during my decade in the watch industry have I seen more shifting of resources, power, and effort than now. That’s actually a good thing as the high-end watch industry is currently undertaking the massive challenge of reforming itself – though the process will take longer than the annual schedule of trade show news expectations allows for. No one, however, wants to be caught with their pants down, and it is admirable to see the effort the watch industry puts into the important show even though many of them are mid-stride not only in the development of new products, but also in terms of the many newly situated managers and creative professionals that run the brands.
The watch industry, if anything, excels at proud presentations. SIHH 2018 sees the 35 participating brands emphasize their greatest qualities with newly designed booths and lots of fresh optimism in the form of newly appointed managers and executives. With that said, little of the dust in the air at most of the brands settled, and many might argue that novelty-hungry luxury buyers may have been better off waiting another year for more impressive news and new product announcements. Alas, despite a decent volume of well-conceived new products, the talk at many watch brands isn’t what new products were shown at the show – but rather what upcoming developments they are excited about.
More than half of the big luxury watch brands we met with are currently experiencing or recently experienced complete shifts in their management. That means new CEOs, country manager, designers, and all the other bits and pieces that make these companies stick together. A palpable sense of “what brand am I at today” could be felt as many of the usual suspects in the industry find themselves handing out business cards with new names or titles on them. Richemont in general has been uncommonly open with their various restructuring plans, showing the human side of the often extremely-closed corporation “family.”
One of the more interesting areas of novel openness was the increased mention of the group’s in-house movement and parts maker, ValFleurier. Often referred to as “Richemont’s ETA,” (ETA is an important watch movement maker owned by competitor the Swatch Group), talk has shifted from “in-house made” to “in-group made.” Brands at the group are increasingly cognizant that their cooperative relationships are better spoken about than hidden behind language designed to promote their supposed independence and managerial autonomy (stories of which were often more optimistic fantasy than reality). Richemont more than ever is seen as a single body – perhaps with many arms, but one whose parts operate in relative unison. The corpus of the big group is grasping for stability, while at the same time recognizing that change will be the norm until it and much of the global economy settles itself.
Let’s return to how all this translates into the consumer experience, which I am proud to say will be positive for 2018 and beyond as new, often well-priced products are soon to come to market. Whether the industry has incorporated my advice over the years, or has come to the same conclusions independently, we are seeing important changes in a number of ways. When it comes to “mainstream” luxury products (not extremely high-end super luxuries) at SIHH, prices are generally down and value-propositions are trying to be pushed up. On paper the consumer does well, as we’ve never seen more decent products debuted at the show in the $10,000 and under category. Yes, there are some noticeable cost-cutting measures when it comes to simplifying production techniques and product detailing. With that said, offerings of new features and performance promises are hoped to swoon consumers who have been paying attention to what the industry has been doing over the last few years, but haven’t been putting down money as often as the brands hope for.
Enthusiasm for the wholesale model of selling watches first to retailers and then to end-consumers seems to be at an all-time low. It isn’t that brands are greedy to recapture margin, but rather that the traditional wholesale retail environment has failed in at least one very important area; marketing building. That translates into the fact that retailers – despite investing in buying products – still don’t seem to have much incentive to promote the brands they carry to their own local markets. The reasons for this are complex, but it has meant that the brand’s themselves have been saddled with the obligation to build consumer demand and awareness (through marketing and advertising) while still promising retailers world-class margins (profits on selling watches which average between about 40–50% per watch). Such margins made more sense when watch brands merely produced and delivered products, but these days with the brands having intensive marketing budget obligations, the old model of distributing watches is finally experiencing its last days as the dominant means of placing a luxury timepiece on the the wrist of a consumer.
To maintain positive relations with those retailers they still rely on, brands aren’t yelling “e-commerce” as loud as some might expect, but quietly most of the big luxury names are actively planning to sell direct or via digital retailers to consumers. The internet is potentially being embraced in a new way for 2018 and beyond, but watch brands still need to seriously bolster the intelligence and expertise in their marketing and communication departments. The message of needing digital and marketing fluency has been received, but at this point the industry simply doesn’t have enough good people internally already to handle the needs of all the brands. It will take a few more years before more of the luxury watchmakers have brought in the right talent to help them not only thrive on digital platforms, but also to cease making costly and often embarrassing “investments” in social media influencers and other half-cocked “get internet famous” schemes. As an industry that espouses the virtues of taking the slow, careful, well-thought-out approach, they still need to incorporate such wisdom in their often fluctuating marketing and advertising departments.
Hope is certainly there for an industry that has been much maligned in the recent past by its stubborn reliance on archaic business models which arguably stopped working decades ago. The digital reality most consumers live in is slowly being tolerated by the Swiss and other European interests that still dominate decision making at luxury watch brands. Knowledge on how to produce museum-worthy products is still accessible, and now brands need to match the same level of quality in their communication and distribution strategies. They are crawling to that point more and more each year – but the finish line may not yet be in sight. With that said, I’ve never been more optimistic about the future of the industry – even if I still can’t predict what it may look like.
Now lets take a look at the top 10 products that aBlogtoWatch feels are the best from SIHH, and represent the types of products and values watch consumers should be looking forward to in 2018 and beyond.
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
Last year Montblanc radically redesigned the iconic Timewalker collection into being a motor-enthusiast lifestyle watch with a hip look. This year in 2018 Montblanc adds what will easily be the collection’s most popular model among those who are seeking a trendy, well-groomed look as well as some horological street cred. Fitted with a new in-house chronograph movement, the Montblanc Timewalker Manufacture Chronograph has an attractive three register chronograph display, panda-style dial, and comes on an optional bund-style “cuff” black leather strap. It’s macho, a good value, and genuinely pretty to look at… and we think a lot of people are going to want one. Price: €4,990
Founded by Michel Parmigiani in 1996, and located in Fleurier, Switzerland — Parmgiani Fleurier is an infrequent manufacturer; a legitimate watch manufacture that has just been in existence for 16 years. The majority of the manufacturers who fabricate their movements in house, have been in existence for more than a century. Furthermore, while a watchmaker only must create one whole caliber in-house so as to call themselves a manufacture, Parmigiani, actually makes moves for all of their timepieces in-house. In fact, through their company, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, they supply a lot of their competitors with essential watch elements. They may be young, but they are a truly integrated producer, capable of generating timepieces from begin to finish.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon
The luxury watch industry has no shortage of tourbillon-based watches to choose from. Looking at the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle, these new 18k pink gold or platinum timepieces include a stunningly well-decorated movement that features just the time with a tourbillon, in a slick automatic movement with a peripheral rotor that does little to hamper the view of the decorated parts. Topping it all off is the use of some of the industry’s best hands. Simply lovely, and a good way to show off about $100,000 on the wrist. Price: $118,000 in Rose Gold and $149,000 in Platinum
Here is an interesting watch that will no doubt be extremely appealing to a very niche group of watch enthusiasts. It isn’t that the Parmigiani fleurier for sale Replica Tonda 1950 product itself is a niche-appeal item (quite the opposite actually), but rather this meteorite snowflake version of it will be among the rarer and arguably more exotic variants. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Meteorite is so rare, we saw it almost a year ago and it still isn’t on the brand’s website (at the time of writing).
In the vintage watch world, the word “exotic” is used a lot, but rarely explained. More often than not, exotic is used to describe a dial versus an entire watch. In fact, very few truly exotic (from a total design standpoint) vintage watches are ever really that popular (most are laughed at – and perhaps justifiably so). Is it really true that all vintage watches look the same and are highly conservative in fashion? Of course not. People oddly fetishize many of the most ordinary, pedestrian designs when it comes to a great number of vintage timepieces. What often separates a more “interesting” from “classic” watch are mere colors alone. It is, therefore, the fact that most “exotic” watches in the vintage sense are otherwise ordinary or well-received watches with different dials and/or colors. This is about as exotic as many of the more conservative collectors seem to get (as far as I see it). I sometimes wish I saw more “bravery” in watch tastes. Though, I do respect not wishing to be brave considering today’s prices.
On this note, you’ll understand what I mean when I say that this Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Meteorite white dial (debuted on aBlogtoWatch here) is going to be considered a future (as well as a contemporary) exotic dial for the Tonda 1950 collection. Parmigiani overall is excellent at making piece unique or otherwise uncommon versions of their watches, slowly seeding the world with more and more exotic watch dials (and they do make some of the coolest ones out there). This watch already knows its future (the one it hopes for) because it says “Edition Speciale” on the back of the case, just as a good bottle of tequila might.
A total of four anti-reflective sapphire crystals permit to get a closer look in this all-new and unique motion, revealing finer details like the flying tourbillon that appears to have been hermetically sealed off behind a porthole kind of aperture, or similar to the two barrels which game the signature of Louis Chiron, Bugatti’s legendary racing driver on a single, along with also the “Le vieux renard” (the old fox) also in reference to him on another side. Frankly, I think it would have been more appropriate to have Michel Parmigiani’s signature on the other one, maybe not that fox nonsense.Yes, all these things are answers to problems desperately sad and/or dull and/or unhappy folks would say shouldn’t have been around in the first place — and, from a strictly sensible strategy, they’re actually perfect. You don’t need a watch dial to come in at a 12° angle to have the ability to read the time precisely how you do not need a car capable of doing well over 400kph to purchase from A to B.However, it appears that if watchmakers are confronted with the challenge of creating a watch that goes with a hyper- or supercar, they think big and think up to out of the box, even as they possibly can. It’s their great, often once in a lifetime chance to make something completely bonkers and eliminate it — just think of the double-balance Roger Dubuis Aventador S, the Hublot LaFerrari, this Blancpain Lamborghini which came with both a tourbillon plus a carrousel for absolutely no fantastic reason at all, or, of course, this Parmigiani fleurier kalpa Replica Sort 390. It is a brand flexing its muscles, and that is all good!
Forget not that Parmigiani also makes this titanium-cased version of the 39mm wide Tonda 1950 with other meteorite dial colors including black and a metallic blue (which also comes in a gold case if you prefer). This white-dialed model might be the runt of the litter, but it still has potential when you want a light dial color that isn’t grey. White-colored meteorite isn’t common most likely because seeing the dial details isn’t as easy with the lower-contrasting colors of a white dial. Thus, it might be reasonable for a watchmaker to not expect as much demand for a subtle version of a dial that people buy for its visual pattern.
For a start, it’s presented in a larger, 40.8mm three-part case, much better suited to the current modern tastes. It is offered in your choice of 18ct white or red gold and was designed with relaxation in mind. It measures only 9.5mm thick and stays snugly on the wrist as a result of the ergonomic design of this lugs, ideal for an understated dress watch intended to be worn for nearly any occasion. Where things really get interesting though is at the construction of this case, especially the distinctive bezel.As you may know today, Michel Parmigiani is a architecture savant. Actually, if he had been younger he considered pursuing architecture for a career rather than watchmaking. Not surprisingly then, all of his designs are heavily influenced by his love of architecture and nowhere is this more apparent than at the Toric collection. Why is this series of watches particular — aesthetically speaking — would be the bezel, which contrasts gadroons and knurling. Mr. Parmigiani apparently based this design on the arrangement of a Doric column and then incorporated the spiral structure of a pointed shell he discovered on a beach in Malaysia. As you can see in the image above, the effect is quite pronounced in the original version he created, although it’s been refined somewhat from the brand new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronomètre.
If there is yet another thing Grand Seiko has taught us, it is that watch lovers, even today, love subtle details on a dial that are not always apparent from afar. I am speaking of course of the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” dial, which is white with a light texture that is invisible from a few feet away. There are going to be those collectors who appreciate the attractive geometric geography of sliced meteorite, but who at the same time value a bit of discretion and privacy. I’m not sure I could pick that type of person out of a crowd, but I know them to be out there.
In fact, for comparison’s sake we have some images of the standard white (non-meteorite) dial steel Tonda 1950 watches (which cost almost half as much), and you can see how challenging it would be to spot the difference if you didn’t know what you were looking for.
This discussion is watch nerdery at its apex, and I’m OK with that. Why else do you buy a $10,000+ watch if you do not obsess over its details? I will, however, say that to a degree, the watch brands have forced us collectors to be this pedantic because of such a glacially slow product refresh cycle. In fact, compared to most, Parmigiani comes out with brand new stuff all the time. I do however mean that when new versions of the Tonda 1950 case come out, do they need to always be in the same finish with the same dial and some light changes such as materials? In the “vintage” days of watches, doing stuff like that was almost common practice. I think more variety among watches today (especially exclusive luxury watches), might lend itself well to more motivated consumers thanks to the increased level of both variety and rarity.
The reason why the white meteorite version of the Tonda 1950 has real “exotic dial” potential is again because the underlying watch is so versatile in its utility. No, it isn’t a sports watch or something your non-watch-interested peers would agree is a good use of money, but it is a good all-purpose dress/formal watch. It also happens to come from a decent brand, has a slick design, and when you flip the case over to show off the movement – you never need to worry about looking like a cheap bum. Parmigiani continues to make truly beautiful movements which are also practical. This one has just the time with subsidiary seconds, and is designed to be a relatively thin automatic movement thanks to the use of a micro-rotor.
The movement is the in-house made Parmigiani PF701 that operates at 3Hz (21,600bph) with a power reserve of 42 hours. It won’t beat a Porsche in a quarter mile, but it will look nice making its way to the finish line. In addition to having immaculate detailing on the dial, movement, and case, did I mention that the case is in titanium? It looks like steel but is lighter and is less common in a dress watch and you’d be forgiven for thinking that the case was steel, because of how nicely Parmigiani polishes it. Getting titanium to look like this is hard. I am not even sure Grand Seiko would have the patience to get it this fluid (they are better at hard lines).
While I saw this watch personally, in the pictures we have it on another team member’s wrist. I’m taken aback at how equally simple and also elegant the Tonda 1950 presentation is, while being a high-end watch without pretension. This is Swiss discretion at its finest, so discreet it needs to actually be pointed out. I’m not even sure that I have enough reason to wear a Tonda 1950 often enough to consider getting one just yet, though models like this make me wonder how much I’d enjoy showing it off to just the right people. Though, I’d have to say that the black meteorite dial is for me (same titanium case) and I’m more of a dark dial dress watch kinda guy (unless the dial is gold). Price for the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Meteorite watch is $19,500. parmigiani.ch
The weird, wedge-like form of the Parmigiani Fleurier Sort 390’s situation will look familiar and yet strangely strange when compared to the Type 370, or even something newer, like the Super Sport (hands-on here). What Parmigiani has done will be re-engineer the movement to reverse how time is displayed: previously it used to be in the tubular section, but now that segment is facing away from the wearer and it’s the steeply angled and intricately framed rectangular bit that rocks the time display, hence offering a considerably larger and more legible dial.This supposed that the movement needed to be packaged all into this cylindrical module, which now incorporates the two, series-coupled barrels that provide a total of 80 hours of power reserve, combined with some quite clever gearing to transmit that power in all three directions. To start with, the barrels are directly connected to the smart power reserve indicator located right supporting them via a bevel gear differential.Second, via a complicated gearing system, the barrels are connected to the flying tourbillon that covers the cylinder from the opposite end. Last, the entire motion is connected to the vertical time display through an “angle transmission” that allows it to transfer energy through a 90° angle into the screen on the dial.
For a start, it is presented in a bigger, 40.8mm three-part case, much better suited to the current modern tastes. It is offered in your choice of 18ct white or red gold and has been designed with comfort in mind. It measures just 9.5mm thick and sits snugly on the wrist thanks to the ergonomic layout of this lugs, ideal for an understated dress watch intended to be worn for nearly any occasion. Where things really get interesting though is at the construction of this scenario, particularly the distinctive bezel.As you may know today, Michel Parmigiani is a architecture savant. Actually, if he had been younger he believed pursuing architecture as a career instead of watchmaking. Not surprisingly then, all of his designs are greatly influenced by his love of design and nowhere is that more apparent than at the Toric collection. What makes this set of watches special — visually talking — is the bezel, which alternates gadroons and knurling. Mr. Parmigiani apparently based this design on the arrangement of a Doric column and subsequently incorporated the spiral structure of a pointed shell he discovered on a beach in Malaysia. As you can see in the image above, the result is very pronounced in the first model he created, though it has been refined somewhat from the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronomètre.
Unless you know Italian, the word “Tonda” might not mean anything to you. Tonda is actually Italian for “round,” and the Tonda 1950 specifically is home to Parmigiani’s collection of ultra-thin round watches. As one of the participants of the first-ever Watches & Wonder in Miami, Parmigiani is announcing its new Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar watch. Available in rose and white gold, the Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar is an interesting option for watch lovers who are seeking out an ultra-thin annual calendar watch for their collection.
The new Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar is actually based off an earlier Parmigiani watch called the Tonda Quator. However, refinements have been made to make it more elegant and legible. First things first, the Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar comes in a 40mm wide case and is available in 18k rose gold and white gold. The rose gold model has a white grain dial, whereas the white gold model has a black opaline dial. The case features the distinctive teardrop-style lugs that have become a signature of the collection. It is water-resistant to 30m. Both models will come with a black alligator strap made by Hermès.
The Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar features a reworked dial to improve legibility. Large hour indices grace the periphery of the dial within and there is a retrograde date indicator. At 9 o’clock you have the sub-dial for the day, and at 3 o’clock you have the sub-dial denoting the month. Finally, at 6 o’clock you have a moon phase display that only needs correcting once every 122 years. To ensure the watch is legible in the dark, the hour indices, alpha-style hour and minute hands, as well as the hands for the day and month indicator are filled with luminescent material.
The movement within is the Caliber PF339, which is a modular movement based on the PF331. It is self-winding and is remarkably thin at just 5.5mm thick. Double barrel mainsprings mounted in series provide a power reserve of 50 hours. Beat rate is 4Hz. The movement is visible through a sapphire display caseback and it is well decorated. The bridges are beveled by hand and feature Côtes de Genève decoration. In addition, the solid gold rotor has barley grain guilloche and the logo of Parmigiani Fleurier.
Compared to the Tonda Quator on which it is based, I find the new Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar to be much more aesthetically pleasing. The reworked configuration of the dial is not only more balanced to my eyes but also more legible. I see it as a compelling option for seasoned watch lovers who want an annual calendar watch that is a bit quirky, more affordable, and off the beaten path of your usual Pateks and Vacherons. The Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar is priced at $29,600. parmigiani.com
The Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Aerolithe Performance Titanium watch is the successor to the Flyback Chronograph we looked at here in 2014. It was an atypical watch from an already “quirky” (in the larger scheme of the watch world) brand, but it really was a cool and unusual piece that managed to also be an everyday wear option for collectors bored with the standard fare luxury chronograph you’ll see on every other wrist. This latest flyback chronograph introduced at SIHH earlier this year takes things up in terms of dial design, laser engraving on the dial and case, titanium body, and overall sleeker looks. While the dial might have aspects I’d have preferred some restraint with, the case style and overall aesthetic culminates in a watch that is a combination of sporty and refined in a way that is uniquely Parmigiani.
Bad AR coatings or some AR coatings result in glare. Glare is ugly, tumultuous, and unluxurious. Glare (and poorly sized or designed hands) should be considered an enemy and always fought by the powers which are in the watch industry. When you see it like a consumer, point it out, whine about it, tell brands and retailers that it’s an undesirable anathema of your appreciation for timepieces. OK, rant over.My second problem with all the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre is that the cost – which is somewhat higher than I figured when checking the watch out originally. It isn’t too much greater than I anticipated, but it seems like a bit could be hauled off to make this a much more appealing value proposition. Yes, the case is golden, and yes the motion and design are very good. That said, I believe like the manufacturer could shave 10 percent-20 percent off the pricing to produce the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre a little more competitive against other products that consumers might consider.For those who enjoy easy dials in watches with personality, the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre is a nice choice. The brand includes a great deal of proud discussing points, and supplies a good overall ownership experience. It is not the Parmigiani we constantly think of now, but for big fans of Michel Parmigiani himself, this may be the ideal piece for. Cost for each is $18,500 USD.
All images by David Bredan & James Stacey
What it isn’t, however, is a simple dressed up version of the new Tonda Metrographe, which it does share some case parts with, but with a different movement, and a price tag that’s less than half at around $11,500 (which after handling it, I have to say is not the craziest price). While there is shared DNA, both pieces need to be evaluated on their own relative standards and merits. Also, while the Parmigiani PF Bugatti 390 Concept watch was the more official companion to the Bugatti Chiron, there are some design inspirations and typically vague “associations” between this Aerolithe Performance Titanium watch and the Chiron, in addition to the 1935 Bugatti Type 57 Aerolithe the watch shares its name with.
For a start, it’s presented in a larger, 40.8mm three-part case, much better suited to today’s modern tastes. It is available in your choice of 18ct red or white gold and was designed with relaxation in mind. It measures just 9.5mm thick and sits snugly on the wrist thanks to the ergonomic design of this lugs, ideal for an understated dress watch meant to be worn for nearly any occasion. Where things really get interesting though is in the building of this case, particularly the distinctive bezel.As you will know already, Michel Parmigiani is an architecture savant. In fact, when he was younger he considered pursuing architecture for a career instead of watchmaking. Not surprisingly then, all his designs are heavily influenced by his love of design and nowhere is this more apparent than at the Toric collection. Why is this series of watches special — aesthetically speaking — would be the bezel, which alternates gadroons and knurling. As you can see in the image above, the result is very pronounced in the first version he created, though it’s been refined somewhat from the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronomètre.
The first thing you notice about this watch is the dial, there is a lot going on and it’s easy to do a little mental editing to make sense of it at first glance. The double tachymeter scale in red and blue represent km/h and mph respectively with the bezel flange marking the performance of the Bugatti itself. However, it is the “inverted diamond pattern” on the dial that makes the watch have a unique appeal and aesthetic. Parmigiani claims the intricacy required to get this detailed dial work done requires a specific laser technology as other typical methods of doing dial work aren’t capable of achieving this result. The matte black inverted diamond pattern achieved is designed to invoke the interior of the new Bugatti Chiron, and while I can’t really claim authority in verifying that link, I can say that the dial looks textured and remarkably well done.
The chronograph sub-dial at 3 o’clock has its own tachymeter scale with a red and blue hand that also serves as a window. This tachymeter is meant to measure walking pace. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock has two hands, one of which is a seconds hand and the other is for the minutes counter for the chronograph. The circular satin grain pattern on the sub-dials is also done using the laser methods used to create the inverted diamond pattern on the dial. I believe the sub-dial at 3 o’clock is made of three layers, which is remarkably intricate and certainly creates a vibrant textured effect.
Rounding up the dial are the delta shaped hands with lumed tips which manage to stand out among a busy dial and are quite legible as well. I could do without the Bugatti logo, not because I find the cross branding inherently offensive but because it creates the same effect that spoils a lot of the Breitling for Bentley watches for me. The watch almost seems weighed down with branding, and there is literally no room left on the dial between sub-dials, logos, date window, etc.
Fortunately, there is anti-reflective coating on the crystal which allows for great legibility on this watch because a dial with this much going on and poor legibility would be nearly unforgivable at this price point. This being said, there are certain angles with less light in which the hands can blend into the black background of the dial but the lumed tips still stand out well. This isn’t a frequent issue and is much less serious than illegibility in the light.
Bad AR coatings or no AR coatings lead to glare. Glare is when light reflects and causes the view to be obstructed or blurred. Glare is ugly, tumultuous, and unluxurious. Glare (and poorly sized or designed hands) ought to be considered an enemy and always fought by the forces that be in the watch market. When you see it as a customer, point it out, complain about it, inform brands and retailers that it is an undesirable anathema of your appreciation for timepieces. OK, rant over.My second problem with the Parmigiani watch tonda 1950 price Replica Toric Chronometre is that the cost – which is somewhat higher than I guessed when checking the watch out originally. It isn’t too much greater than I anticipated, but it appears to be a bit may be knocked off to make this a far more attractive value proposition. Yes, the case is golden, and yes the movement and design are very good. That said, I feel as the manufacturer could shave 10%-20% off the pricing to make the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre a bit more competitive against other products that customers may consider.For those who enjoy simple dials in watches with character, the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre is a fine choice. The brand comes with a lot of proud discussing points, and supplies a good overall ownership experience. It isn’t the Parmigiani we always think of now, but for big fans of Michel Parmigiani himself, this may be the ideal piece to get. Cost for each is $18,500 USD.
The lugs and integrated chronograph pushers (located on the left side of the case) are immediately reminiscent of the curves of the 1935 Bugatti Type 57 Aerolithe but more importantly are very aesthetically pleasing and almost sinewy on the wrist. The titanium case measures 41mm wide and 12.7mm thick (with 30M of water resistance) which are pretty ideal proportions considering the thin bezel and dorsal seam inspired lugs. The side of the case is laser engraved with a checkerboard pattern that, along with the strap that has a pattern matching the dial, brings this watch’s attitude and style together in a visually dynamic way. Finally, the deployment clasp differs from the previous iteration by foregoing the red Bugatti logo for a more demure checkered pattern with the Parmigiani logo.
All this remarkable complexity goes strongly against what many will just see as a weird, wedge-shaped watch, without ever giving a second thought to how it might possibly function. Certainly, an ultra-thin movement could’ve been crammed under that angled dial, but that would definitely be disappointing from a watch produced by a brand using a vertically integrated manufacturing background — and, mind you, a watch designed and produced to go with the fastest production car in the friggin’ world.Again, the vertical dial generates all kinds of challenges, all mainly related to getting the tubular motion to convey its own timekeeping results towards a time screen set in an entirely different plane. The angle transmission which solves all this actually is an aptly termed “worm screw” that meshes with the enormous, though largely hidden wheel that’s just beneath the greatest wheel at the middle. Start looking for the worm screw at the upper right section of the picture above — the wheel meshes together with the big teeth of a wheel that’s two layers under the black PVD-coated bridge. It’s an innovative solution and once again something that you won’t find in watches with normal round or square cases.
Turning the case around reveals the exhibition case back with a view into the calibre PF 335, which is as attractive and well made as any movement from Parmigiani. This in-house movement is 30.3mm-wide and 6.81mm-thick and operates at 28,800vph and has a 50-hour power reserve. The movement is made of 311 components with 68 jewels and is decorated with Côtes de Genève.
A total of four anti-reflective sapphire crystals allow for a closer look at this all-new and exceptional motion, showing finer details like the flying tourbillon which seems to have been hermetically sealed off behind a porthole type of aperture, or similar to the two barrels which sport the signature of Louis Chiron, Bugatti’s legendary racing driver onto a single, and the “Le vieux renard” (the older fox) also with regard to him on the other. Honestly, I think that it would have been more appropriate to have Michel Parmigiani’s signature on the other one, maybe not that fox nonsense.Yes, all these items are solutions to problems desperately gloomy and/or uninteresting and/or unhappy people would say should not have been around in the first place — and, from a strictly sensible approach, they’re actually right. You don’t want a watch dial up to come in at a 12° angle to be able to read the time precisely how you do not need an automobile capable of performing well over 400kph to purchase from A to B.However, it seems that when watchmakers are confronted with the challenge of creating a watch that goes with a hyper- or supercar, they think big and think as far out of the box, even as possible. It’s their great, often once in a lifetime opportunity to create something completely bonkers and get away with it — just consider the double-balance Roger Dubuis Aventador S, the Hublot LaFerrari, this Blancpain Lamborghini that came with both a tourbillon plus a carrousel for absolutely no good reason whatsoever, or, needless to say, that Parmigiani fleurier kalpa tonda Replica Type 390. It is a brand flexing its muscles, and that’s all great!
The Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Aerolithe Performance Titanium watch is a significant update from the previous iteration with more sophisticated laser engraving work on the case and dial, titanium body, and an overall improved package. While not affordable by any means, Parmigiani has reduced the price from the previous Aerolithe Flyback Chronograph by about $4,000 which, while not bringing this down to a broader price segment, is always good to see in tandem with a significantly improved product. Price for this watch is $22,900. parmigiani.com
The PF390 cylindrical caliber was designed and produced wholly in house, save to the stones and hands — even the Breguet overcoil balance spring was produced by Parmigiani’s high-precision manufacturing subsidiary named Atokalpa. At the end of the 7-layer motion, we find the flying tourbillon that runs in an impressive 4Hz — no more low-frequency conventional BS compromises there. The entire movement is composed of 302 components, a rather large part count to get a watch with only hours, minutes, and power reserve.Before the plates are black PVD coated, so they receive haute horlogerie grade hand completing that entails beveled and hand polished borders on all the weird and unexpectedly complicated, partially skeletonized plates and bridges, as well as on countersinks and wheel spokes. Despite the fact that Parmigiani has its own dial manufacture, they opted to not use one and rather went with a trendy, skeletonized overlay frame.The situation itself is a special invention as well and, having noticed a number of previous Parmigiani-Bugatti cooperation high-end pieces, this really is an evolution over those, comparable to how the Chiron went outside the Veyron’s aesthetics. It is noticeably more angular and also a much more aggressive looking thing, produced in 18k white or rose gold. Strong lines and long, wide, sweeping curves meet in the 42.2mm by 57.7millimeter case that, like all prior Bugatti watches, is unusually comfortable on the wrist.
I am a sucker for high-end fashion dive watches from brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Chaumet. Some of these are very rare, but they are usually all well-done for what they are. A high-end fashion dive watch is more or less a designer style diver from one of the big fashion brands. I am not sure who first made this concept appealing the modern sense, but credit may go to Chanel for essentially taking the theme of the Rolex Submariner and making an all ceramic watch that looks sexy and sporty at the same time.
Chaumet’s offering in this arena is the Class One range. Compared to some of the other high-end fashion houses the Chaumet Class One has a wide assortment of options and styles. In addition to three-hand, GMT, and chronograph models, the Class One has been offered in a large range of looks and sizes (for men and women). For me the best model is the Class One XXL that is 45mm wide and offered in steel and titanium, titanium, or in rose gold. This size has the GMT and Chronograph version, and I think they are fun looking, sporty divers that will appeal to those who want something a bit different – at least in the US. Chaumet is a brand not sold in the US – so as far as I know having a Chaumet might be a lot more common in other parts of the world such as France or Japan. I think the first time I saw Chaumet watches in person was in London at their store within a store in Harrods.
Inside the Dandy-collection, There’s a special location for the Dandy Édition Arty. This component of the collection takes the passion for the asymmetrical to higher grounds. Two off-set circles at a black metalized crystal now display hours, minutes and seconds.The crown affixed to the peak of the watch, half place from the ring. Although quite stunning by itself, guys who want to enhance the mechanical nature of this watch might prefer the open face version where the equipment train towards the small moments has been made visible. The Dandy Édition Arty is powered with an ETA 2892-A2 fitted with a module created by Agenhor, the identical company also builds the module for its Dandy Metronome.The ultimate Dandy Édition Arty, and possibly even the supreme Dandy ever, are just two very special watches. Here, the metalized crystal that creates the top of the watch is substituted by Tiger-eye for its pink gold variant, and Snow Obsidian for its steel version. Both semi-precious stones, and especially the snow obsidian, are quite seldom used in watches, which makes them a suitable option for the Chaumet Watches Prices Replica Dandy and indeed pleasantly different!One of their oldest jewellery homes in Paris, Chaumet was founded in 1780 under the first name Nitot and Fils. Since the official jeweller to Napoléon, Chaumet made the royal regalia for the Emperor’s coronation, and the royal stone for both his first wife Empress Joséphine along with his next spouse Marie-Louise of Austria. A visit to the boutique will uncover a dazzling world inspired from the Empress, with tiaras old and new adorning the walls of the expansive rooms, and exquisite Joséphine jewels refined for today’s contemporary aesthetic.Jewellery collections are exhibited in a setting that evokes the Maison’s rich heritage. Six classic watch collections, all designed in house, exemplify the Chaumet savoir faire.
Being able to get one of these overseas and wear them in the US has its advantages. Especially when people ask you about the watch and you comment on how “oh, these aren’t available in the States.” The dial is very easy to read, especially with the thick lume-coated hands. The dial is black with a bit of a wave pattern and metallic blue rings around the chronograph subdials. The friendly looking bubbly “12” is a nice touch.
The large rotating bezel is done with a PVD black coating while the case on this version is a mix of steel and titanium. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and has a sapphire crystal display back. Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic chronograph movement with a custom rotor and decoration. While it is available with a metal bracelet, this XXL model has a rubber strap with folding steel deployment clasp. The wide size of the strap helps give the watch an even more impressive look on one’s wrist, but actually works to reduce the visual size of the case.
Price for this watch is about $5,500 – making it around the same price as many other high-end high-fashion dive watches. These watches aren’t cheap but can be argued to have a higher perceived value due to the names on the dial. They are also pretty well designed and have an almost charming look to them. One of these Are Chaumet Watches Any Good Replica Class One XXL Chronographs is available on James List right here.
Its watches capture the essence of Parisian sophistication, in the Dandy model with a Swiss-made mechanism which was developed by Chaumet, to the limited edition Hortensia tourbillon set with diamonds and Grand Feu enamel in blue and purple tones. These watches are an impressive testament to the skill of their Maison’s master craftsmen.Forever inspired by its rich history, Chaumet’s legacy is always on show. For more than 200 years, its high jewelry workshops have stayed within its headquarters above the boutique at 12 Place Vendôme. Chaumet undertakes the whole production process, from first sketch to finished jewel. Using experience that has been passed down from generation to generation, its own master jewellers nevertheless sit at the same 200-year-old wooden workbenches crafting every bit of Chaumet jewelry by hand, from one-off collections of high jewellery to diamond engagement rings, watches and tiaras – a lasting emblem of the home of Chaumet.As official jeweller for the wedding of Emperor Napoléon I and Joséphine, Chaumet sets the greatest standards in regards to bridal jewellery. The boutique on Place Vendôme provides a complete lineup of classic and contemporary styles for him and her, including the Joséphine engagement ring inspired from the Chaumet tiara, along with the Bee My Love series, which pays tribute to Chaumet’s excellent history with Napoléon.The prestigious, Paris based jewelry and watchmaking house presented a new model from the luxurious Class One Collection, renowned by the odd blend of rubber and diamonds. The new Class One High Jewellery watch showcases an exceptional selection of differently cut diamonds in black and white blend, entirely covering its white gold case, bezel and dial. By discovering a subtle connection among stunning luxury and sporty elements, Chaumet’s craftsmen once again demonstrate their incredible imagination, therefore appreciated by glamorous ladies from all around the globe.
Really soon (6pm on September 24th) it will be time for the Only Watch 2009 watch auction. I summed up the detail a bit here, and here. Click there to get the specs on it all. Frankly I am a bit tired of writing “Only Watch” 2009, but just because there has been so much to say about it. The concept is really cool; your favorite watch makers need to make special unique watches that are then sold to the super elite, and the money goes to charity. The auction is held at the Monaco Yacht show every other year.
Charity is nice and all, but for me it is all about the crazy watches they the brands came up with. This year there will be 34 watches auctioned off. For a watch to be part of the auction it must be the very first in a limited edition (1/XXX), or a totally unique watch specially made for the event. I really enjoyed seeing what the brands put out there, and I look forward to smirking at the prices that will be achieved for the timepieces. There is going to be a heavy amount of alcohol being poured at the event I am sure – which helps lubricate that part of your wrist that signs checks.
Check out this video from TheTimeTV.com that has Mr. Patrizzi talking about the Only Watch 2009 auction. Osvaldo Patrizzi is the guy behind Patrizzi & Co., the auction house and major organizer behind the Only Watch events. The video has lots of shots of the watches. You’ll want to see this unless you were among those people who got to see the watches on their traveling tour around the world. Getting you all excited pre-bidding time. Don’t you love the logo for the event? It is so 1981 cheesy. Some of my favorites for the event are from Omega, Louis Vuitton, Bovet, Gerald Charles, Confrerie Horlogerie, and Chaumet.
Here is a (growing) comprehensive list of all the one-of-a-kind watches made and donated by brands to the 2011 edition of the Only Watch charity auction to be held in Monaco in September. As of writing there are 34 participating Only Watch 2011 brands that will offer a piece for auction. The below list will be updated as new information comes in. The names of the piece are under the image of that respective piece.
Celsius X VI II LeDIX GMT Big Date Mobile Phone Only Watch 2011
Breguet Maestro Only Watch 2011
The very recognizable wristwatches in the brand are even today for ladies, with one exception: The Dandy.The Chaumet Dandy was released in 2003, and it’s title couldn’t have been more suitable. A lot of emphasis was placed on look, coming with a refinement therefore organic that it seemed almost casually effortless. It was completely in line with Chaumet’s tradition of adding a generous dash of Haute Couture to it has designs, something a real dandy never objects to. The oval shape of the case, combined with the surprisingly little screwed in lugs, led to a really recognizable watch. Nevertheless the most important trademark of the watch was it has asymmetrical dial, complemented by a calf leather strap with an off centre line of silk sewn in to compliment the dial. The fantastic news for watch connoisseurs was also that the Dandy was fitted with a manual wind movement. For those who may find it unsatisfactory that this was only the ETA/Peseux grade 7001, there are two points to keep in mind; First of all, it’s stated that a Dandy often comes from a working background and is almost always a self-made guy. Secondly, as could a Dandy, is refinement is obtained gradually using its age.The current collection of this Chaumet Dandy is a screen of “Dandyism” in the best tradition. More intriguing though it gets with the chronograph. This watch still offers the asymmetrical dial but appears more balanced because of the two sub dials. Even though the Dandy is known as an oblong, the case is much more of a pillow. The time-only version is 38mm wide and high and is not a little watch, but the automatic chronograph adds two millimetres to this and comes with a generously sized case 40mm wide by 40mm high. Particularly when you opt for the steel bracelet, you’re wearing quite a substantial watch. The bracelet also has an asymmetrical layout, and in a time when lots of bracelets look alike, this is very refreshing.
Ikepod Hourglass Only Watch 2011
Bell & Ross Casino Roulette Radar
Romain Jerome Rock the Rock DNA
Zenith El Primero Captain Chronograph and Pilot lefty watch set
Hublot 4000M Carbon Diver (Oceanographic 4000) Only Watch 2011
Tag Heuer Monaco Mikrograph
Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo Only Watch 2011
Piaget Altiplano Only Watch 2011
Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Only Watch 2011
DeBethune Only Watch 2011
Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Only Watch 2011
Patek Philippe Ref. 3939 Tourbillon Minute Repeater Only Watch 2011
DeWitt Only Watch 2011
Chopard LUC Engine Tourbillon Only Watch 2011
Richard Mille RM 027 Rafael Nadal Only Watch 2011
Bernhard Lederer Gagarin Tourbillon Only Watch 2011
Audemars Piguet Only Watch 2011
MB&F HM4 Only Watch 2011
Urwerk UR-103 “Phoenix” watch hand engraved by Jean-Vincent Huguenin
Bovet 7-day Tourbillon with reversed hand-fitting “Dragon & Phoenix” watch
Louis Vuitton Tambour Diver Chronograph Only Watch 2011
Van Cleef & Arpels Jules Verne From The Earth To The Moon Poetic Complication Only Watch 2011
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Only Watch 2011
Montblanc Vintage Pulsographe 39mm Piece Unique Only Watch 2011
Frederique Constant Piece Unique Family of Watches
Blancpain Villeret Grande Decoration Only Watch 2011
Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Perspectives d’Art “Dove” for Only Watch 2011
Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011
Harry Winston Midnight GMT Tourbillon Only Watch 2011
Chanel J12 Marine Only Watch 2011
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde Only Watch 2011
Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Only Watch 2011
Vulcain Anniversary Heart Only Watch 2011
Cyrus Klepcys Only Watch 2011
Chaumet Dandy Arty Open Face Only Watch 2011
Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor for Only Watch 2011
Franck Muller Crazy Hours Totally Switzerland Only Watch 2011
deLaCour Mourinho City Ego for Only Watch 2011
Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu for Only Watch 2011
Quality Chaumet Watches London Replicareplica watches online offered can make one of the limelight from the crowds and they’ll never set you back a leg along with some leg.There is little be found inside our web store store except the most amazing Chaumet replica watches which are famous for online perfect craftsmanship.The Swiss Chaumet Dandy has existed since 2003,happen to be more appropriate. A great deal of emphasis was set on look, coming with a refinement so organic it appeared almost casually simple. It had been totally consistent with Chaumet’s tradition of incorporating an ample dash of top fashion to it’s layouts, something a true dandy never objects to. The oblong form of the circumstance, combined with surprisingly little screwed in lugs, resulted in an exceedingly recognizable view. The primary trademark from the watch was it’s asymmetrical dial, complemented with a wing leather strap by having an off center kind of lace stitched into compliment the dial. What’s asserting for watch connoisseurs appeared to be the Dandy was fitted using a manual wind movement.Founded over 200 decades back by Marie-Etienne Nitot, Chaumet started its history at that time of Napoleon. Nitot offered his Emperor impressive jewels, therefore getting the Royal family’s jeweler.The great standing and fame of Chaumet have been through time, the amassing such as the best jewellery and the very clever watches.
Within the Dandy-collection, There’s a special location for your own Dandy Édition Arty. This component of the collection takes the love to the asymmetrical to high grounds. Two off-set circles in a black metalized crystal sapphire now display hours, minutes and seconds.The crown migrated to the top of the watch, half set in the strap. Although quite stunning by itself, guys who want to amplify the mechanical nature of this watch might prefer the open facial version where the gear train towards the small seconds was made visible. The Dandy Édition Arty is powered by an ETA 2892-A2 fitted with a module created by Agenhor, the identical company also assembles the module to its Dandy Metronome.The ultimate Dandy Édition Arty, and perhaps even the ultimate Dandy ever, are just two very special watches. The metalized crystal that creates the top of the watch is replaced by Tiger-eye for its pink gold variant, and Snow Obsidian for its steel version. Both semi-precious stones, and especially the snow obsidian, are very seldom used in watches, making them a acceptable choice for the Chaumet Dandy and indeed pleasantly different!One of the oldest jewellery houses in Paris, Chaumet was founded in 1780 under the original name Nitot and Fils. Since the official jeweller to Napoléon, Chaumet made the royal regalia for the Emperor’s coronation, and the royal stone for both his wife Empress Joséphine along with his second wife Marie-Louise of Austria. A visit to the boutique will uncover a dazzling world inspired from the Empress, with tiaras old and new adorning the walls of the expansive chambers, and exquisite Joséphine jewels refined for today’s contemporary aesthetic.Jewellery collections are luxuriously exhibited in a setting that evokes the Maison’s rich legacy. Hidden upstairs on the second floor of this ancient monument is the earliest salon in Place Vendôme, as well as Chaumet’s atelier, archives and design studio. Six timeless watch collections, all created in house, illustrate the Chaumet savoir faire.
Chronographs are not the only complication that Chaumet integrated in the Dandy-collection. Very interesting is the Dandy Metronome. This watch includes a complication with a smart method of two seconds hands which run in the opposite direction to each other, making the appearance of a metronome on the dial. This complication was initially developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht for its Steinway & Sons Seconde Metronomique, really the watch collection of the famed piano-builder. The Dandy Metronome is placed in a white gold case and features a black and white motif on the dial and the strap. It had been introduced in 2011 as a limited edition of 100 pieces to commemorate the 200th year after the birth of Frederic Chopin. What’s Chaumet’s link with Chopin? Chopin used to reside in the building in Paris in which Chaumet’s boutique is now located.A pleasant surprise is that the present Dandy-collection also includes a jumping hour as well as a regulator. The jumping hour is that the dressiest of the two, and displays yet another hallmark of this Dandy-collection; the finish of the dials. They could strike one as being rather plain and straight-forward in the beginning, but closer examination reveals a wealth of finishes and textures. The jumping hour for example comes with a midnight-blue dial with guilloché bayadères stripes and a fine-brushed sunray design. The disk with the jumping hours can be midnight-blue, with white numerals, an essential detail that is often overlooked. The regulator has a more casual and sporty character. While the jumping hour is only available in white and pink gold, the ruler a steel-only model albeit combined with a few pink gold details. When coupled with the metallic bracelet, the ruler rather an imposing watch, and a proposal one may not expect from a brand like Chaumet, and not within the Dandy-collection. It is as if our metaphorical Dandy is flexing his muscles with the end result of a practical yet exclusive opinion as a result. Nevertheless this is a unique option, but clearly not afraid to go head to head to other offerings within its price class.
In the US, one of the less known LVMH watch brands is Chaumet. LVMH, for those who don’t already know, owns brands such as Zenith, Louis Vuitton, Tag Heuer, Hublot, and Dior. I really enjoy some of Chaumet’s watch designs, but with models names like “Dandy” they might need a marketing refresh to be US market viable (if that is even in the cards for them). Lets not dwell on trivial marketing issues and focus on one of their cool watches from a few years ago. The Parisian brand released this Chronograph model back in 2006 I believe. It is a bi-compax style chronograph watch with a round face in a cushion case. Probably the best conceived cushion style case around. This is aided by the interesting design of the lugs.Chaumet is all about modern art deco design. Part of that is a play on asymmetry. You’ll note the “racing stripes” (as I call them) on the dial that flow into the strap. This is a common element in many of their watches.
The black dial here is hard to appreciate in images. It has various shades of black from the stripes to the subdials. The polished steel segments on the dial including the hands are hour markers are eye-pleasing and calming. There are a variety of unique, but simple shapes all over the watch that aid to it being easy to love. the crown has a black cabochon it in to match the dial, while the chronograph pushers are tapered to create the illusion that the case itself tapers as well. Large lug screws feel instrumental and masculine. This is a men’s watch after all.
The big rotating bezel is done using a PVD black coat while the case on this version is a mixture of steel and titanium. While it’s available with a metal bracelet, this XXL model has a rubber strap with folding steel deployment clasp. The wide size of the strap helps give the watch a much more striking look on the wrist, but really works to reduce the visual dimension of the case.Price for this watch is roughly $5,500 – which makes it around precisely the exact same price as many other high-end high-fashion dive watches. These watches are not cheap but can be argued to have a higher perceived value due to the names on the dial. They’re also fairly well designed and have an almost charming look to them. One of these Chaumet Class One XXL Chronographs is available on James List right here.already understand, owns brands like Zenith, Louis Vuitton, Tag Heuer, Hublot, and Dior. I truly enjoy some of Chaumet’s view layouts, but with models names such as “Dandy” they might require a advertising refresh to be US market viable (if that’s even at the cards to them). Lets not dwell on trivial marketing issues and focus on one of their cool watches from a few short years ago. The Parisian brand released this Chronograph model back in 2006 I believe. Possibly the best conceived cushion style case around. This can be aided by the intriguing design of the lugs.Chaumet is all about contemporary art deco design. Part of this is a drama on asymmetry. This is a common element in many of their watches.
I am a sucker for high-end trend dive watches from brands such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Chaumet. Some of these are rather uncommon, but they’re usually all well-done for what they are. A luxury fashion dive watch is more or less a designer fashion diver from one of the major fashion brands. I’m not sure who made this concept appealing the contemporary feel, but credit may visit Chanel for basically taking the theme of the Rolex Submariner and creating an all ceramic watch that looks sporty and sexy at precisely the same time.Chaumet’s offering in this arena is the Class One range. Compared to some of the additional high-end fashion houses the Chaumet Class One has a wide range of options and styles. Along with three-hand, GMT, and chronograph versions, the Class One was provided in a big assortment of appearances and sizes (for men and women). For me the best version is the Class One XXL that is 45mm wide and offered in titanium and steel, titanium, or in increased gold. This size has got the GMT and Chronograph version, and I think they are fun looking, sporty divers that will appeal to people who desire something a little different – at least in the US. Chaumet is a new not sold in the US – so as far as I know using a Chaumet could be much more prevalent in other areas of the world such as France or Japan. I believe the first time I saw Chaumet watches person was in London in their store within a store in Harrods.Being able to receive one of those overseas and wear them in the US has its own advantages. Especially when people ask you about the opinion and you remark on how “oh, these aren’t available from the States.” The dial is very simple to read, particularly with the thick lume-coated hands on. The friendly looking bubbly “12” is a wonderful touch.
On the contrary, the absence of the 12-hour counter allowed Chaumet’s designers to create an extremely balanced design of the dial with the 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock counterweighted by the tiny seconds indicator at 9 o’clock. The employed Arabic numeral at 12 o’clock isalso in its own turn, counterweighted by a little window at 6 o’clock. By the way, the dial is made from 18-carat white gold with highly ornamental blue Grand Feu enamel, which is quite hard to create, however, if done correctly, looks absolutely fabulous.The oversized logo together with the vertical and horizontal white stripes on the dial are here to mimic the iconic design of Chaumet Vintage Watches Replica boutiques which was created by architect J.M. Wilmotte and can be used across the world.
Named after the powerful monohull powerboat from 1990s that was a part of the most prestigious single-handed races, such as Vendée Globe and Route du Rhum, Chaumet’s Class One Collection made the actual revolution in the ladies’ watchmaking industry, in the end of this 20th century, by providing an entirely unusual combination of materials. Now, there’s a variety of models that represent this esteemed variety, but the one that I especially like is the new Class One Top Jewellery watch together with all the black and black decoration.Let us start in the circumstance. It is crafted in polished and rhodium-plated 18 karat white gold, using the diameter of 39 mm, which is pretty large for a ladies’ watch. The bezel is set with 36 baguette-cut white diamonds and 12 black brilliant-cut diamonds (the total of 7.32 carat), whereas horns and case sides come adorned with 74 calibre-cut white diamonds (7.6 carat) and 84 brilliant-cut black diamonds (0.35 carat). This jewelry piece is protected using a curved sapphire crystal, using the dark metallized “Chaumet Paris” emblem on the inside.The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanism, whose wonderful decorations, such as a mother-of-pearl rotor with the Class One guilloché pattern, are observable through a crystal opening at the case-back. When it is fully wrapped, the movement provides around 42 hours of power-reserve.
Named after the powerful monohull powerboat from 1990s which was component of the most prestigious single-handed races, for example Vendée Globe and Route du Rhum, Chaumet’s Class One Collection made the actual revolution in the women’ watchmaking business, in the conclusion of the 20th century, by offering an entirely unusual mixture of substances. Today, there is a number of models that reflect this esteemed range, but the one which I specially like is the brand new Class One High Jewellery watch together with the thrilling black and white decoration.Let us start in the case. At length, an 18 karat white gold crown is adorned with a black diamond cabochon.A hypnotizing dial is a particular narrative. Designed like a chess board and made of 18 karat white gold, it’s completely covered with 34 calibre-cut white diamonds and 86 black diamonds (the total of 9.6 carat). This jewelry piece is guarded using a curved sapphire crystal, with the black metallized “Chaumet Paris” emblem on the inside.The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanism, whose wonderful decorations, such as a mother-of-pearl rotor using the Class One guilloché pattern, are visible through a crystal opening at the case-back. When it’s fully wrapped, the motion provides around 42 hours of power-reserve.
In French fashion, this is a “brand” watch. The Chaumet name is largely highlighted on the dial creating a lifestyle component to the timepiece. Big polished letters remind you that you are a Chaumet man. A “dandy” man as well? At least the Dandy name isn’t on the watch anywhere. At 40mm wide the case is a solid medium size, though it will wear “large” given the relatively thin bezel. Chaumet uses a Swiss ETA 2894-2 automatic movement. Though the 12 hour indicator for the chronograph has been removed to give it that bi-compax look. The case is 50 meters water resistant. The dial has a great looking blue chronograph seconds hand that adds a nice splash of color. There are thin strips of SuperLumiNova on the face that are colored to glow blue in the dark. You can get the watch with a leather or steel bracelet. As one of many Chaumet Dandy watches this is a nice rendition for a man who likes the style, but doesn’t want to venture into the more avant garde territory that some Chaumet watches can go into. Price for these watches retails for $3,000 – $6,000 I think
You can get one of these Chaumet Dandy Chronograph watches with the steel bracelet for about $3,900 on James List here.
Sponsored Post written for aBlogtoWatch by advertiser.
Back in 2014, Christopher Ward broke into the world of in-house movement manufacturing with the introduction of the Calibre SH21. As an unexpected move to witness from a young, independent brand, industry experts were curious, surprised, and in many ways, thrilled to see this kind of dedication from Christopher Ward. Since then, the British brand has released a handful of attractive watches that utilize the the SH21 – like the the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Power Reserve. Today, Ball Watches Rubber Strap Replica continues to push the limits of their very own in-house movement and now aim to find new ways to build upon the SH21 as a base movement to be used in newer and more feature-packed timepieces.
The story of the Calibre SH21 can be traced back to late 2009, when Christopher Ward’s master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, began the long process that would eventually end with the first in-house Christopher Ward movement. Another important step in the process was the merger with Synergies Horlogères, a partner crucial to the execution and development of the SH21. After four years of hard work, trials, failures, and successes, the Calibre SH21 was revealed to the watchmaking world in July of 2014.
The Ball Watches Glasgow Replica C1 Grand Malvern Jumping Hour shares exactly the exact same restrained 40.5mm stainless steel case by the flagship C1 Grand Malvern Power Reserve, with a polished bezel and drag tops along with a brushed case band, giving it the appearance of a well-proportioned apparel watch. Like another Malvern watches, the Jumping Hour has a 30m water-resistance evaluation along with a twin-flag motif on the crown.Under the dial, the Christopher Ward C1 Jumping Hour stocks an identical beating heart to its predecessor, the C9 Harrison. The ETA 2824-2 foundation of the predecessor was replaced by a Sellita SW200-1, and it is a well-known substitute for the ETA and more popular given the fast declining supply of ETA moves to non-Swatch manufactures. On top of this robust, workhorse motion is the JJ01 module, developed in-house. The modular path makes sense over developing a new movement from the ground up given that among their brand’s goals is to keep prices affordable.The watch is given in three dial colours; blue, black, and white, with the latter having a domed opaline finish, using sunray finishes on the other two. There’s no seconds hand but the second hand is simple and clean and polished or blued (determined by dial shade). It’s identifiable as a Malvern using the dial the case and finishing the apparel watch aesthetic. The window for the jumping hour is at 12 o’clock and contains sloping edges that echo the design of their date windows on other Malvern lines. This is a neat bit and the attention to detail is appreciated.
The Christopher Ward Calibre SH21
The Christopher Ward Calibre SH21 was also a response to the waning supply of third party movements, particularly at the hands of the Swatch Group’s reduced distribution to competitors. Though this is due to have an effect all the way through 2020 (and beyond), Christopher Ward takes pride in seeing this as an issue early on and investing heavily in the research and development of a movement that would facilitate true independence. It was clearly a worth-while effort and now, Christopher Ward is now in a position to license its design out to other brands, and help create some new competition in the watch industry.
Christopher Ward’s master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke
Industry shake-ups aside, the Christopher Ward Calibre SH21 is quite special for the brand. Consisting of 164 parts, it features an in-series twin barrel system that allows for 120 hours of power reserve, which is something that often comes at a huge premium from other brands. It operates at 4Hz (28,800bph) but the movement’s crowning feature is of course, its timekeeping. All Christopher Ward Calibre SH21 movements are COSC certified, making them the perfect base movement for new and compelling in-house releases and innovations.
Although the Calibre SH21 can be seen as a huge accomplishment, Ball Watches Replica Replica still has their sights set on the future. In-house movement production is a big move for any brand but it’s important to keep moving. Now, Christopher Ward is eager to take things to the next level with the Calibre SH21 at their side as a base movement in order to bring new, mechanically interesting, and value-driven timepieces to watch enthusiasts everywhere. As the the first commercially viable movement from a British watch brand in 50 years, this movement is sure to stand as a crucial point in the brand’s history and a catalyst that’ll spark new growth and competition in the watch industry. christopherward.com
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