Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe ‘Guilloche’ Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Replica For Sale


Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At SIHH 2017, Parmigiani Fleurier released two beautiful new limited-edition versions of one of my favorite watches from the brand, the Ovale Pantographe. It is largely the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe we are familiar with, but with some newly added exclusivity for those people who wanted a good reason to spend about 60% more on the watch. To see what is new, you must literally look beyond the surface, as these versions look strikingly similar to previous limited-edition Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe watches from 2013.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

What is similar to those models is the “Guilloche” Barley Grain Dials with applied, versus printed, hour numerals. Although the 2013 limited editions had the hands and hour markers in blue, these 2017 Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe limited-edition models have the hands and applied hour markers in chic black. “Guilloche” is in quotes as the dial is not indeed produced from a rose engine but rather stamped, as Parmigiani readily explains. I do admit that if the dial were indeed authentic machine engraving it would be very appealing. I was recently able to test my own skills with a real guilloche machine doing this exact barleycorn pattern and know how difficult and time consuming it is. Doing a single dial could take hours and hours of work.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani seems to get brands like Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe as benchmarks, but Parmigiani doesn’t now enjoy their branding. I’m not saying those brands have improved connections with consumers, but rather that they have more, and much more widespread relationships with consumers. The man who receives a Patek Philippe Calatrava dress watch is frequently less interested in watches and much more interested in the brandnew. Parmigiani is, rather, competing (in my view) with additional “watch lover” brands that are little more market such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chopard, as well as Rolex’s dress watches, which are a little more niche in their own collection. When taking this under account, the Parmigiani option is often the most expensive (for this amount of complication). At the exact same moment, it may be the situation that Parmigiani’s pricing is logical. Three-hand dress watches in 18k gold cases vary in price from a couple thousand bucks to probably $100,000 (for very exotic or hand-crafted models). As a watch nerd, the pricing for the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre may feel a bit away, but also for other consumers surveying a bigger array of the market, the just under $20,000 price of those pieces might be exactly what they intend to cover a watch like this.

What’s truly new is the movement, which isn’t different, but rather done in solid 18k rose gold. So now both the Ovale case and the in-house made Parmigiani PF111 movement are in gold. I recently covered another Parmigiani watch with a gold movement, which was a steel-cased limited edition of 10 pieces Kalpa Hebdomadaire Anniversaire model. That model’s movement was decorated differently with more hand engraving, while the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe with Barley Corn Dial and Gold Movement has more traditional Geneva stripes on the gold movement. With that said, the movements in each of the watches are structurally almost identical.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The PF111 movement is manually-wound and comprised of 267 parts. It operates at 21,600bph (3Hz) with a long power reserve of eight days (192 hours). The movement here uses a disc under a crescent-shaped power reserve indicator to to display the remaining power via color – it goes from black to white as the power reserve winds down. There is also an “open” date display over 6 o’clock that, in this instance, helps visually balance out the dial. The Parmigiani Fleurier logo is right above 12 o’clock, and arguably almost hidden a bit on the watch face.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

In addition to the Ovale-style case shape, the Parmigiani Ovale Panotgraphe is so well-regarded because of the awesome system of telescopic hands which uses more than 30 parts in mostly titanium. In black, the hands look stately and legible. Their purpose by design is to grow and shrink in size so as to match the varying dimensions of the non-round case shape as they move around to indicate the time as we explain in more detail in our hands-on article here. In the modern sense, this is a Parmigiani creation, but the actual invention of this concept is credited to a pocket watch from 1780 that Michel Parmigiani himself restored. Like many talented modern-day watch makers, Mr. Parmigiani really taught himself watchmaking through the art and discipline of restoring antique horological creations.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Parmigiani Ovale case is a special character in the watch world given its unique design, beautiful and comfortable wearing experience, and charming visual personality. The combination of distinctive Parmigiani signature teardrop-style lugs and oval shape make it a winner for being different in the category of dress watches were many things look more or less the same to me. Coming to this conclusion isn’t easy just by looking at it, but if you view our hands-on and review articles on the Parmigiani Ovale Pantograph, you can come to your own conclusion on how well the design might sit on your wrist.

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 'Guilloche' Barley Grain Dial & Gold Movement Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The case for this set of Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 2017 limited-edition watches comes in either 18k white or 18k rose gold, each with the same dial and black Hermes alligator strap. Size is 37.3mm wide by 45mm tall and 12.5mm thick (water resistant to 30 meters). The 2017 Parmigiani Pantographe “Guilloche” Barley Grain Dial And Gold Movement watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces in each case material with a price of $85,000 each. parmigiani.ch

Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 Watch Replica Trusted Dealers


Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 Watch First Look

The movement is relatively slim at 3.5mm thick, and also the automated rotor is both engraved and generated from strong gold.In typical Parmigiani style, the situation is fitted with an extremely nice Hermès alligator strap and fitting 18k gold buckle. The black strap is, as usual, beautiful and also comfortable to wear. Though, by nature, these straps need to be replaced every few years because of wear.My two complaints regarding the Parmigiani Toric Chronometre are easy. First is that while the sapphire crystal has AR-coating on the bottom, they need to have it on the very best also. Watch brands have this old belief which top-applied AR coating can easily scratch off and seem bad. This is only true when the application is done incorrectly. Sapphire crystals alone aren’t enough. Brands will need to make sure the crystals will be the exact right shape, as well as properly AR-coated out of both sides. New coatings and other treatments can make it very tricky to damage or scratch the AR coatings. I say all of this because I think the icing on the cake that may make many “great” watches “good” is investing the time and resources in making sure the crystal (that is nearly always purchased from an outside provider) perfect. The crystal is the window into the dial, and the dial holds the entire functional value of a wristwatch.

Bugatti founder Ettore Bugatti states “Nothing is too beautiful… Nothing is too expensive,” and nothing helps to illustrate this point more clearly than the next evolution in the partnership between Bugatti and Parmigiani Fleurier. Taking a page from the luxury car manufacturer’s playbook Parmigiani is offering the completely customizable Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390. Customers are given the opportunity to customize the exterior of their Bugatti Type 390 to express their own unique personalities. The PF390 movement inside also defies traditional watchmaking with its cylindrical form, made to mimic the Bugatti Chiron’s motor.

Customers have control over the materials used for the case, buckle, and strap. In addition, the customer will also have control over the structure of the dial itself including the indices and hands, as well as the decorative elements on the edges of the case. As a cherry on top, the customer is able to pick the color of the sapphire crystal enclosing the movement. All of these options will yield extremely unique pieces that exemplify the customer’s individuality. The one presented here today is a unique piece showcasing the abilities of Parmigiani’s customization process.

Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 Watch First Look

Specifications

Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
Model: Bugatti Type 390
Dimensions: 42.2mm x 57.7mm
Case Material: White gold & black carbon as a default, but these watches are customizable
Crystal/Lens: 4 Anti-reflective sapphire crystals, with a magnifier on the tourbillon cage
Movement: In-House PF390 hand-wound movement
Frequency: 28,800vph/4Hz
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Black and red Alcantara strap
Price & Availability: $300,000 (Unique piece available in June 2018)

Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 Watch First Look

© 2018 Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S

Analysis

Obviously, Parmigiani has created something that transcends a mere timepiece. This will be a piece of artwork that is worn on the wrist made to represent the owner specifically. I would like to know more about what options are available to the end user. The case materials are stated to be white gold and carbon, but could a customer opt for platinum if they felt especially frisky?

Aesthetically, the Bugatti Type 390 is an interesting study in haute-horology. The sloped case design, cylindrical movement, and inlaid carbon fiber in this unique piece will not be to everyone’s taste, but ultimately the point is to change that if desired, right? I think offering these options sets this piece apart in a way. It will allow a customer that is willing to spend the $300k price of admission to create something that only they will have. While I am not that customer, I can appreciate the value in that.

Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 Watch First Look

Summary

I think the partnership of Bugatti and Parmigiani is one that will continue to bear good fruit. They are offering something a little more unique and perhaps tailored to the type of clientele that a watch of this caliber is bound to attract. The look of the watch itself may be polarizing, but again, this can be changed to suit. The Parmigiani Bugatti Type 390 will be available for $300,000. However, this does not account for the level of customization and I wonder how a change in materials will alter the price. parmigiani.com